mrmumbels – posted 13 December 2010 13:56
We need more input from people on here. Tell us what’s worked and what hasn’t worked for you guys.
jugheadfla – posted 20 December 2010 10:43
I just put down some Jamur Zoysia at the end of October, but I can’t really say what works and what doesn’t because it is still establishing. I have a company handiling the chemicals and they are actually very communicate very well so I will let you know if the recommend something. I also use a reel mower and I would suggest using one if you have a smaller lawn like mine.
mrmumbels – posted 20 December 2010 23:23
I bought a real mower but my lawn is way too big. I tested it on the back lawn for a while but didn’t notice any difference in the look. If my lawn were shorter and super thick it would have made more sense to use it.
jugheadfla – posted 22 December 2010 09:12
Do you still water with the same frequency after it goes dormant or do you water less? Also, how many minutes do you water your lawn per zone? I believe I am currently watering 22 minutes, but I’m not sure if that is enough.
gt2201b – posted 30 March 2011 16:53
quote:Originally posted by mrmumbels:We need more input from people on here. Tell us what’s worked and what hasn’t worked for you guys.
A couple of years ago, didn’t you plant Ultimate Flora Zoysia and Empire Zoysia. Which did you like better?
mrmumbels – posted 31 March 2011 09:58
It’s hard to say which one I liked more because the ultimate flora never really took well. I planted it in an area behind my pool that was under a tree and over the sand they had put down for good drainage around the pool. So like the rest of my lawn it struggles for water although the Empire has started taking it over slowly.
In the long run I’ve never really seen the UFZ at it’s full potential.
If I were to tell you what to get I’d say Empire since it’s more proven.
gt2201b – posted 31 March 2011 19:39
Ok. Thanks! I’m resodding my backyard next week. It was between the Empire Zoysia and the UF Zoysia. I have a few areas of shade and was concerned that the Empire wouldn’t thrive there. Sounds like the UF is even harder to grow in less than ideal conditions.
mrmumbels – posted 01 April 2011 09:35
I don’t know for sure it harder to grow in less than perfect conditions but it’s a very thin bladed grass so I’m thinking it would have to be happier than empire to get the most ground cover out of it.
awin4me – posted 18 April 2011 01:05
I’ve had my empire in for well over a year now, so I’ve gone a full cycle. I’ve learned some things not to do and have educated my neighbors as they are going to get empire.
1. Empire loves sun (does poor in shade). My lawn is basically full of sun so it’s ideal for me. I have one spot by my a/c and bushes that gets 40% shade and thus the grass is sparse there.
2. Broad leaf herbicides work well without damaging the zoysia. HOWEVER……..be careful with Image or Sedgehammer herbicides. If you overapply these it will severely hurt or kill your grass. Application typically always stunts your grass as well for Sedge or Image.
Be happy to help others, just ask. Love my grass and people constantly tell me its the best in my 200 house neighborhood
awin4me – posted 18 April 2011 01:07
Jug,
You should water the same to slightly less. Do not starve the grass of water. There is this annoying spot in my yard with sparse water coverage the grass comes back super slow. I gotta fix that area
benjammin – posted 19 May 2011 07:41
Well I guess I can’t post pics in a thread on this forum. Does that change after a certain number of posts?
Here’s a link to another forum where I posted before and after topdressing with sand. http://www.lawnsite.com/showthread.php?t=227385&page=24Yard had recently been core-aerated also. I had a fungus last year with multiple treatment apps last year and 3 this year. Then there was Hunting Billbug explosion! Now I’m not sure if my fungus problem was the main problem. I did a bifenthrin app as soon as I saw the swarming adults and will do another app for adult and larvae control with chlorantraniliprole (Acelepryn), clothianidin + bifenthrin (Aloft), or imidacloprid + bifenthrin (Allectus, Atera)in about a month.
mrmumbels – posted 19 May 2011 11:49
quote:Originally posted by benjammin:Well I guess I can’t post pics in a thread on this forum. Does that change after a certain number of posts?
Here’s a link to another forum where I posted before and after topdressing with sand. http://www.lawnsite.com/showthread.php?t=227385&page=24Yard had recently been core-aerated also. I had a fungus last year with multiple treatment apps last year and 3 this year. Then there was Hunting Billbug explosion! Now I’m not sure if my fungus problem was the main problem. I did a bifenthrin app as soon as I saw the swarming adults and will do another app for adult and larvae control with chlorantraniliprole (Acelepryn), clothianidin + bifenthrin (Aloft), or imidacloprid + bifenthrin (Allectus, Atera)in about a month.
Welcome to my new home Benjamin! Can’t post pics but you can add the link to a photo somewhere else online. There doesn’t seem to be any perfect zoysia forum right now but I think this one is the best so far since it’s only for Zoysia.
benjammin – posted 19 May 2011 13:47
So I guess I should post a little more info.I laid 3,500 square feet of Empire Z from Oakland Plantation (Bladen County NC) in June or July of 2008.Sod was laid in back of new construction over the top of annual rye that had been scalped and tilled under with the addition of lime (following review of soil sample results from NC Ag Ext). I laid the sod with the help of friends, watered, rolled, watered, watered, watered (irrigation already in place). I wasn’t too happy with the thickness consistency of the sod and I could have done a better job gradding after tilling.First year was a battle with moles but sod took good. I’ve done my own fertilizing and annual soil sample testing through the Ag Ext. I have a licensed lawn applicator guy for help with fungus but recently had a Hunting Billbug swarm also.After aerating this year and topdressing with sand I’m hoping for a smooth, dense turf in a month or two.
benjammin – posted 19 May 2011 14:15
I’m in Wilmington, NC. Zone 8, less than a mile from the ocean but my property is a transition from pure, clean beach sand to organic rich upland woodland wetland soils. Signiciant fill (nutrient/organic poor) soils were brought in for the front yard, house foundation, and septic field (which includes about half of the zoysia back yard).Back yard gets some full sun but all the yard gets atleast 6 hours full sun in the summer.
benjammin – posted 19 May 2011 14:48
Old pics here:http://www.lawnsite.com/showthread.php?p=3207029#post3207029