Jim – posted 12 May 2001 06:17
I forgot to include this in my last question.
How do I get rid of moss in my yard. It is basically around some maple trees in rather large patches and seems to just pull up without any problems.
TURFTIDE – posted 12 May 2001 14:27
Two items you can try. Dawn Ultra dish soap at 2-3ounces per gallon of water or an iron sulphate at 6 ounces per gallon of water. watch it turn color within hours.
Burlap_Etc – posted 15 May 2001 21:49
quote:Originally posted by Jim:I forgot to include this in my last question.
How do I get rid of moss in my yard. It is basically around some maple trees in rather large patches and seems to just pull up without any problems.
Hay, What about Copper Sulfate. If you are trying to control Spanish Moss or Ball Moss or others for that matter find some Copper Sulfate and spray moss after a rain for best results and then it will be dead. Now getting it off. Wish for real high winds. I’ve never tried soap but thanks for the hint I will experiment.
Burlap_Etc
basshead151@hotmail.com – posted 23 May 2001 20:25
WHY!!!?? green all year, neverneeds mowing or fert., and it looks great with some nice rocks and ferns.
seed – posted 28 August 2001 22:16
I agree with basshead, moss is great. One of the biggest unanswered questions is, “How to grow it?”
But, if you still want to get rid of it, there’s a web page available to you from Cornell University:http://www.cce.cornell.edu/suffolk/grownet/lawnpest/lawnmoss.html
Phil
Orlando Dave – posted 03 September 2001 16:53
You guys must not be from Florida. Moss is a tree’s worst enemy here. There are trees all over the place that are dead or dying from spanish moss and air plants. Moss gets so heavy on some trees that you can’t see through it even though it’s already killed the tree.
I’ve already lost one beautiful oak to it in my yard. I’ll try the soap first, thanks for the suggestions.
DENYSE – posted 15 June 2002 08:44
IS IT JUST SPRAYED ON THE LAWN, AND DO I NEED TO SEED THE LAWN IN THE SPOTS?
DHARRIS@CUPHEALTH.COM
quote:Originally posted by TURFTIDE:Two items you can try. Dawn Ultra dish soap at 2-3ounces per gallon of water or an iron sulphate at 6 ounces per gallon of water. watch it turn color within hours.
shadow1994 – posted 17 April 2004 22:56
The cornell U link is dead as of this post. If you read this way past post date of this then it may work. Just thot I would help ty
Buttwheat – posted 19 April 2004 10:23
Give him a blocking assignment, that should do it.
OK sorry. That stuff might get rid of the symptom but not the problem (ie your “large patches” comment). If you have it elsewhere in the yard, it might need aerating.
[This message has been edited by Buttwheat (edited 19 April 2004).]
Friar Tuck – posted 13 May 2004 21:08
Moss is mostly a cultural problem,usually in a low light situation,in areas that also hold moisture.Also soils tend to be more acidic in areas where moss is prevailent. Try pruning some branches on surrounding trees to allow more light to penetrate.Also areating and raking in a bit of pros choice select may help,this will improve drainage.Add some lime to the area as well to raise the soil ph. Ferrous sulphate can also help in late may and early june when moss is activly growing
josepht – posted 13 May 2004 22:00
quote:Originally posted by Orlando Dave:You guys must not be from Florida. Moss is a tree’s worst enemy here. There are trees all over the place that are dead or dying from spanish moss and air plants. Moss gets so heavy on some trees that you can’t see through it even though it’s already killed the tree.
I’ve already lost one beautiful oak to it in my yard. I’ll try the soap first, thanks for the suggestions.
I think it is safe to say that they are not talking about the same type of moss you are.
They are talink about what grows in moist shady areas like on the shaded side of the house near the ac unit Thinck green stuff that will pull up in clumps
But the spanish moss is neat I saw it first in Savanna they told me that people use it to make pillows out of
But to answer how to control it I got this quote her from the below linkProducts that change soil pH can be used to control moss. Lime, iron and copper products have been used to control moss. Make your moss control application when moss is actively growing during the spring and summer.
http://www.weedalert.com/weed_pages/wa_moss.htm
this is a great website for referances
cohiba – posted 14 May 2004 06:34
Friartuck, I agree wholeheartedly. With one thing to add. I feel the main problem with the soils that have moss in the Calcium to Magnesium ratio within the soil is out of whack. Magnesium is overtaking the Calcium. I would(and have on atleast two occasions) add gypsum in high concentrations to the areas(After raking and pulling the moss up). The gypsum will not harm any grass that is there and will not change the soil pH. To change the soil pH you will need to add HI-CAL lime. The calcium will knock the magnesium molecule off the soil coloid and allow for better drainage. Making it harder for the moss to return.
Soil tests will confirm if magnesium plays a hand in moss development.
Just my two cents……
jr – posted 14 May 2004 08:25
Orlando Dave, spanish moss and ball moss absolutely does no harm to any tree. I am a certified arborist in Melbourne and I deal with this issue constantly. A tree only gets excessive spanish or ball moss growth after it is declining because of some other stress, whether it be an environmental, pest, or cultural issue, or old age. These mosses are not parasites; they simply rely on the tree for structural support, just as soil is the structural support for other plants. They are epiphytes, just like orchids, and get their water from rain, nutrients from the air, and photosynthesize. As the tree declines further, they are able to grow more and more vigorously because of the extra light they receive, but they are not the cause of the decline. At some point, usually beyond any hope of restoring the tree to good health, again because of some other factor, they do become an additional stressor to the tree because of the shade they create.
However, some people just don’t like the looks of it or are unwilling to accept the fact that the mosses are not a parasite, and if that is the case they are easily controlled with copper sulfate, preferably the wettable powder formulation.
lady tree doctor – posted 26 February 2008 04:10
Spanish Moss and Ball moss that are in trees have been causing a lot of problems for us in the tree industry. Since moss will not kill a tree I have found that one pound of moss holds two more pounds of rain water which becomes three pounds heavier on the tree or tree limb. When in abundance the spanish moss becomes a wind blocker which in turns can cause damage to the tree should a strong storm or hurricane approach. I’m a certified arborist but I have learned that being certified arborist I must also research what is beneficial as well as what can be dangerous during Florida’s strong storms and hurricanes. I have noticed where there is more Spanish Moss there’s less leaves and less Spanish moss more leaves especially on the ends and tops of trees. I wish not to create any debates but only show the results of years of research on moss problems. University of Fla recommends spanish moss be pulled out of Citrus and crepe myrtles to avoid the spanish moss becoming too abundant to avoid smothering of the tree. An oak limb of the size of a crepe myrtle or citrus tree can also have the same problems. Hope this helps but I do love research and know what’s out there to benefit or hurt the trees. Spraying trees with four different formulas does control the moss problem(s) and I do recommend that only if the moss is too abundant for storms. I thank you for letting me put this on the forum.Claudia, Lady Tree Doctor
Darth – posted 04 April 2008 19:51
Claudia, lady tree expert,What four formulations do you recommend to remove / eradicate the Spanish Moss? It has taken over our oaks and without photosynthesis, the trees are dying. The stand of trees are on a lakefront setting.Thank you.Darth
johnmegrue – posted 01 June 2009 06:14
Did you get an answer yet? I’m having real trouble with some of my oak trees and need help. E-mail me any info you get at jmegrue@hotmail.com.Many thanks
quote:Originally posted by Darth:Claudia, lady tree expert,What four formulations do you recommend to remove / eradicate the Spanish Moss? It has taken over our oaks and without photosynthesis, the trees are dying. The stand of trees are on a lakefront setting.Thank you.Darth
jpeg52 – posted 17 March 2010 13:03
I have moss growing through out my grass and it is getting into my flower bed. the Dawn Ultra/iron sulphate that was suggested to use, will it harm my plants. The moss seems to be sufficating my plants though it can be pulled up easy. I am getting really tired of this moss. HELP
Steamaster – posted 18 March 2010 14:44
Im laughing about the Spanish Moss comment still. Please don’t bring it inside your house. Most of it contains small mites that bite and seave red bumps on your skin. You can microwave it for 30 seconds and then bring it indoors. Yes, I live in Florida.
FLGardenguy – posted 28 October 2011 10:19
This is late but needs to said…spanish moss isn’t directly responsible for killing any tree. If you see a tree in decline and moss existed prior to this state, it will grow exponentially due to the increased rate of leaf leeching…which feeds the moss. It is not parasitic and exists on trees such as Live Oaks and Bald Cypress simply because these types of trees have a higher leeching rate than others. It can damage a tree by blocking sunlight or getting heavy enough during a rainy spell to break a limb. Trees hit by lightening and subsequently die wil have increased spanish moss production.
AMN – posted 30 March 2013 06:32
Thank you for the information, it wil be quite helpful.
The Cornell link was only moved, I located it at http://ccesuffolk.org/assets/Horticulture-Leaflets/Lawn-Moss-Control.pdf and provides a very good discussion on options and their effects.