What’s the difference? — Pics

gt2201b – posted 09 May 2011 19:41

First of all, let me give you the background.

I had St Augustine grass in my backyard. I absolutely hated it. After spending many hours of research, I decided to replace it with Empire Zoysia. I was a little hesitant to replace my entire yard so I did it in 2 phases (a 3rd phase will be this Thursday).

1st phase – I went to Lowe’s and purchased 11 sod squares. This would allow me to see if I liked how Empire Zoysia felt and looked. I knew nothing about laying new sod. I found some Scott’s Turfbuilder Seeding Soil and thought that should work. I went home and tilled up the existing soil while mixing in the Scott’s soil. And layed the Empire Zoysia (sand bottom) on top of the mixture. After a couple of weeks, the sod looked a beautiful thick dark green.

mrmumbels – posted 11 May 2011 08:38

Your 1st phase sod is probably rooted better and yes the turf builder’s nitrogen has definately gotten picked up by that first phases roots.

I actually have the same thing going on in my lawn right now. I dropped alfalfa in a few spots and those spots are dark green in comparison to the rest.

What are the exact dates that you layed the phases?

gt2201b – posted 11 May 2011 11:06

1st phase – March 23rd

2nd phase – April 6th

I have a 2000sq ft more coming tomorrow May 12th. Seeing these results, makes me think that I don’t need to put down peat moss and topsoil. I will just top dress it later with an organic matter.

I would to put down that Scott’s Turfbuilder for the whole 2000sq ft, but that would cost more than the actual sod. I paid $200/pallet for the sod.

mrmumbels – posted 11 May 2011 11:50

quote:Originally posted by gt2201b:1st phase – March 23rd

2nd phase – April 6th

I have a 2000sq ft more coming tomorrow May 12th. Seeing these results, makes me think that I don’t need to put down peat moss and topsoil. I will just top dress it later with an organic matter.

I would to put down that Scott’s Turfbuilder for the whole 2000sq ft, but that would cost more than the actual sod. I paid $200/pallet for the sod.

If you have sandy low organic soil, I’d think twice about not adding the peat moss or some kind of organic amendment. Look at mine today. This is because of the sand here in FL. I did not amend my soil prior to laying the sod in 2006 and have been struggling since then.

awin4me – posted 12 May 2011 00:09

mrmumbels…..

Time to water your turf more Looking brittle, not good

mrmumbels – posted 12 May 2011 01:07

quote:Originally posted by awin4me:mrmumbels…..

Time to water your turf more Looking brittle, not good

That’s what you think. You’d think very 3 days for 70 mins per zone would be enough right?

gt2201b – posted 12 May 2011 12:43

quote:Originally posted by mrmumbels: That’s what you think. You’d think very 3 days for 70 mins per zone would be enough right?

Not if you have sandy soil!

gt2201b – posted 12 May 2011 12:47

quote:Originally posted by mrmumbels:Your 1st phase sod is probably rooted better and yes the turf builder’s nitrogen has definately gotten picked up by that first phases roots.

I actually have the same thing going on in my lawn right now. I dropped alfalfa in a few spots and those spots are dark green in comparison to the rest.

What are the exact dates that you layed the phases?

You were exactly right. Yesterday I looked at the light green grass, and I could still pull it up. It hasn’t rooted yet. I hate these muck bottom pallets!

mrmumbels – posted 12 May 2011 13:29

quote:Originally posted by gt2201b: Not if you have sandy soil!

Well, that should be enough but it obviously isn’t. I could water every day and my lawn would still dry up.

There’s just no winning with this crappy soil!If you don’t water often enough your grass dries up and eventually dies.If you don’t water deep enough your roots stay shallow.If you water too often you get fungus.

awin4me – posted 13 May 2011 01:55

mrmumbels,

lol, yeah your soil must be even more sandy then mine. My water schedule is only every other day 20 minutes per zone. But it rained on me tonight! So I get to cut the sprinklers off a day

mrmumbels – posted 13 May 2011 05:07

quote:Originally posted by awin4me:mrmumbels,

lol, yeah your soil must be even more sandy then mine. My water schedule is only every other day 20 minutes per zone. But it rained on me tonight! So I get to cut the sprinklers off a day

Awin are you here in FL? How much water do you get down in 20 mins? And is it working out of for you? Anpy pics? I’ll try anything. I did try the 20 min per zone once and got screamed at by the lawncare company I had at the time.

gt2201b – posted 14 May 2011 05:50

quote:Originally posted by mrmumbels: Well, that should be enough but it obviously isn’t. I could water every day and my lawn would still dry up.

There’s just no winning with this crappy soil!If you don’t water often enough your grass dries up and eventually dies.If you don’t water deep enough your roots stay shallow.If you water too often you get fungus.

You will only get a fungus if you water at night and don’t give it time to evaporate. What time do you water?

gt2201b – posted 14 May 2011 06:49

quote:Originally posted by mrmumbels: That’s what you think. You’d think very 3 days for 70 mins per zone would be enough right?

It sounds like you may need to aerate, remove the plugs, and fill in the holes with peat moss. Peat moss is excellent at holding moisture in sandy soil.

mrmumbels – posted 14 May 2011 18:20

quote:Originally posted by gt2201b: It sounds like you may need to aerate, remove the plugs, and fill in the holes with peat moss. Peat moss is excellent at holding moisture in sandy soil.

My exact thought, but I was planning to use alfalfa since it’s not so acidic and has tons of nutrients. I just need to find someone to aerate it that will work with me to find the best way to get the pellets down those holes.

mrmumbels – posted 14 May 2011 18:21

quote:Originally posted by gt2201b: You will only get a fungus if you water at night and don’t give it time to evaporate. What time do you water?

But if you’re constantly watering the odds of fungas go way up. I pretty much would have to water every day to keep my grass hydrated right now.

awin4me – posted 23 May 2011 23:52

quote:Originally posted by mrmumbels: Awin are you here in FL? How much water do you get down in 20 mins? And is it working out of for you? Anpy pics? I’ll try anything. I did try the 20 min per zone once and got screamed at by the lawncare company I had at the time.

Yes, I live south of Ocala, FL. I’d have to put out a rain gauge or something to tell you how much water my zones put out. I know prior to putting down my zoysia I addressed a shortage of sprinkler heads in my lawn, I really concentrated on making sure there was even coverage. I still have (2) little spots that I sometimes hand water a few minutes when needed. Like when its 97 outside like this week.

This is a miserable time for sod, hot with zero rain chance. Be glad when its the rainy season and so will my grass.

mrmumbels – posted 24 May 2011 09:55

I’ve got my sprinklers on 35 mins per zone every other day right now. Seems to be working out ok. I don’t know how far down the water is saturating but it’s working so i’m leaving it for a while.

jugheadfla – posted 24 May 2011 10:24

quote:Originally posted by mrmumbels:I’ve got my sprinklers on 35 mins per zone every other day right now. Seems to be working out ok. I don’t know how far down the water is saturating but it’s working so i’m leaving it for a while.

I was told by my lawn company to set my sprinklers to water for 50 mins each zone twice a week and it seems to be working fine for me. I believe it is better to water longer less frequently then shorter more often.

mrmumbels, what part of Tampa are you in? Are you close to the Bay or any water? Just wondering if the salt in the air maybe making it worse. I stayed at a resort this past weekend which had golf holes literally right on the ocean and I noticed that they had to water the fairways 3 times every day just to keep the moisture in the grass because of the sea.

mrmumbels – posted 24 May 2011 15:22

quote:Originally posted by jugheadfla: I was told by my lawn company to set my sprinklers to water for 50 mins each zone twice a week and it seems to be working fine for me. I believe it is better to water longer less frequently then shorter more often.

mrmumbels, what part of Tampa are you in? Are you close to the Bay or any water? Just wondering if the salt in the air maybe making it worse. I stayed at a resort this past weekend which had golf holes literally right on the ocean and I noticed that they had to water the fairways 3 times every day just to keep the moisture in the grass because of the sea.

What kind of zoysia and how tall are the blades right now? The good half of my lawn which is about 4 inches high and thick could get away with your watering schedule but my bad side is too thin and shallow rooted to use any water that would go down past 2 inches. It’s coming back slowly though! The alfalfa has been the extra push it needed. No chemical fertilizer ever got it green and alive like this.

I’m in Land O Lakes btw.

[This message has been edited by mrmumbels (edited 24 May 2011).]

jugheadfla – posted 24 May 2011 19:20

quote:Originally posted by mrmumbels: What kind of zoysia and how tall are the blades right now? The good half of my lawn which is about 4 inches high and thick could get away with your watering schedule but my bad side is too thin and shallow rooted to use any water that would go down past 2 inches. It’s coming back slowly though! The alfalfa has been the extra push it needed. No chemical fertilizer ever got it green and alive like this.

I’m in Land O Lakes btw.

[This message has been edited by mrmumbels (edited 24 May 2011).]

I have Jamur Zoysia and the blades are approx 3 inches high. I have put down some alfalfa pellets as well and it seemed to work really well. I am going to take some pic this weekend after I cut it. I will show the problem spots that I have. I am also going to do some top dressing with Black Kow and see if that helps as well.