turfgrass

Help with Nut Grass!!!

Help with Nut Grass!!!

Gabriel – posted 07 September 2005 17:42

I have new sod that just went in. I thought I killed everything that was growing before, but now it’s growing through the sod. I was told it is nutgrass

QWERTY – posted 08 September 2005 07:25

I had the same problem too. I must have pulled up thousands of them since I sodded St Aug in July. I called Turfgrass America and they said its my fault?! Screw them. They’re a bunch of idiots. I’ll never buy grasses from them again.

redtex – posted 23 September 2005 22:35

i think i’m going to go and pull them up one by one tomorrow. it may take me a full day to do a 10′ x 10′ section of my yard (where an old above ground pool used to be) but i’ve not been able to find a good remedy. i’ve heard you just have to yank them and make sure to get the ‘nut’ with them.

cohiba – posted 24 September 2005 06:25

Late in the season, like this, the nut breaks off the growth. The nut comes back in the summer next year. Next year try Manage when they first come up and another application a month later. I sprayed Roundup on some and initially was disappointed. However the Roundup worked about two weeks later.

Go getim’, I hate nutsedge!………….

redtex – posted 25 September 2005 19:24

does manage and/or roundup permanently kill the nut or will it keep coming back every year?

cohiba – posted 26 September 2005 12:37

I am almost sure those little nuts spread and multiply underground. It may take a few years of Manage to finally eradicate them from your soil. Be persistent, it will payoff in time. The Roundup should work to kill the nut and all parts of the plant.

Hang in there………………

BuckinNC – posted 27 September 2005 10:10

Pulling nutsedge is not an effective way to get rid of it as you will always leave a few nuts behind, even if you believe you have the whole root, and they’ll just spring right back up.

The most effective method I have found is to use Image in a pump up sprayer. Place the nozzle right on the ground at the base of a plant and give it a shot. Then flush down with a cup or so of water. Manage, and RoundUp, translocate through the plant to the roots, Image goes directly to the root through the soil. As such it also targets nuts disconected from the root in the area.

Works well for me on 419. Keep in mind, if you use Roundup, it is going to hit the turf as well, it is non-selective.

Alex_in_FL – posted 20 August 2006 07:52

Sedges are HARD to kill. If your lawn can tolerate Manage then try it. You are going to have to starve the nutsedge. This is not easy. The pesky weed has storage areas. Pulling can work if you pull weekly since eventually the tuber will run out of food.

My new house has a bumper crop of sedge and crabgrass in the back yard (about a 1/3 grass, 1/3 sedge, 1/3 crabgrass). The good news is they are not growing together. Maybe if I fertilize the crabgrass it can choke out the sedge and then I can easily kill the crabgrass……

[This message has been edited by Alex_in_FL (edited 20 August 2006).]

TexanOne – posted 23 August 2006 01:11

The herbicide “Sedgehammer” will kill nutsedge the best and is the only herbicide I know that has good control of sedges. Roundup will top-kill the sedge, but it will come back – I don’t know why it doesn’t get the underground “nut”. A 1-gallon treatment of Sedgehammer is about $30.

Sedgehammer comes in a 4″ x 4″ cardboard packet with a dissolvable glycerine bag that contains the powder – just throw the plastic-looking bag in a 1-gallon sprayer and it will dissolve.

cohiba – posted 24 August 2006 18:06

Sedgehammer is the same exact thing as Manage. Since manage is off patent Sedgehammer has come out to steal some of its market. Both work well if a surfactant is used with them.

spray…wait…repeat………..

TexanOne – posted 26 August 2006 05:14

Cohiba, I didn’t know Manage was a knockoff from Sedgehammer – thanks for the money saving tip!

Cohiba gives good advice – spray, wait, repeat. You cannot dig out sedges or use any other herbicides to get rid of the stuff. Nutsedges are tough nuts to crack…

hankhill – posted 26 August 2006 23:25

Actually, the two aren’t in competition formarket share. Manage is gone, and the rightsto sell the active ingredient were bought byGowan, which they sell as Sedgehammer.

I did have a problem last year when I didn’tknow what they were and let them grow & grow& grow. However, this year, I find that ifI just pull the big ones (still 3-6 leafstage) I see in my pre-mow walk around, theydon’t get too bad (in thick St. Augustine).

andyd – posted 07 September 2006 08:42

Image (available at a lot of places like Home Depot and Lowe’s) seems to do the trick as well. If the stuff is in your lawn you may need to let it grow so you can find it, the nutgrass tends to grow a lot longer a lot faster than the grass. However, not when it has been hot and dry, so it may take a couple of applications because you won’t be able to find all of it if it is lower than the grass height.

Also be aware that it takes a few weeks to see results. Don’t expect to come out in a couple of days and see the nutgrass withering away. It takes a while.

Pulling is useless. I tried that route in decomposed granite walkways where I had the benefit of it not being in the middle of a lawn and all I did was fall behind because it kept coming back.

Crnhskr80 – posted 07 September 2006 19:09

Great comments. Thanks to all. I am in the process of killing a lawn, removing it, putting in new loam and sod. I used Round-up and it killed everything but the yellow nutsedge and clover. How long after I apply Sedgehammer should I allow the herbicide to work on the nutsedge? Also, how can I tackle the clover? Also, I am in the Boston area.

hankhill – posted 07 September 2006 23:10

In response to the comment that pulling doesn’twork for nutsedge, I can report that–in mythick turf areas (3″ St. Augustine)–itkeeps nutsedge in check. It’s not gone butI see fewer plants each week. I’ve learnedto spot them fairly well even in thick areas.

However, I have a landscaping bush areain front of the house that had cedar mulchbut now pretty much just has bare dirt.Pulling there is pretty useless–like andyd’swalkway. I pull 15 plants up and nextweek I have just as many or more.

My conclusion is that the turf *does* chokethe nutsedge out and hinder it–either byshade or CO2 denial. All I know is that itworks…for my lawn.

[This message has been edited by hankhill (edited 07 September 2006).]

Liane – posted 26 December 2006 03:47

I am nearly beside myself.

I live in the British Virgin Islands and have just had Zoysia sod laid in my yard. The fellow who laid it said that Zoysia grass was too thick for nutgrass to come through and that I shouldn’t worry about digging it all up. Not quite believing him, (after I had seen how resilient this devil weed really is) … I was still digging the stuff the morning they came to lay the sod. Unfortunately, there were still several places I had not managed to get to.

Prior to the sod being laid, I used every weed killer known to man (including Gramozone, Round Up and 2,4-D) to try to eradicate all the nutgrass and other weeds in my yard which was previously overrun with wild tamarind trees and various other weeds. It took months to get rid of all the weeds successfully, but the darned nutgrass persisted.

Under the sod, the yard is mainly very heavy clay mixed with rocks. Lots of rocks! He put a thin layer (maybe 2 inches) of Pro Mix/sand and soil on top of the clay before laying the sod.

After reading this and other forums, I am really concerned that his advise regarding the nutgrass may not have been accurate! My sod is only four days old and has not yet taken hold of the ProMix/Sand/Soil mixture he put on top.

Now I am worried that the thousands of dollars I just spent on my lawn may have been wasted and that the nutgrass will pop its ugly little head through the grass in a matter of weeks and possibly days!

I am really concerned that this stuff is going to appear in the lawn. I have potted a few of the “nuts” I dug out and plan to do some trial and error on it to see if any houselhold products will safely kill this stuff without damage to my lawn. This morning I brushed on some Malt Vinegar to see what the results might be and will report back if I am able to find something (anything) which works.

We don’t have Sedgehammer or Image available here, but I suppose I could import some if my tests are unsuccessful. I’m going to try a mixture of salt and water on the patio where some nutgrass is already rearing its ugly head between the patio stones.

I can’t remember if it was this forum or another, but somebody suggested that nutgrass cannot tolerate drought. Not so! We often have very high temperatures and long periods of drought and the nutgrass is alive and doing very well. Darn it!

Any suggestions of things to try would be greatly appreciated! I HATE nutgrass!

Alex_in_FL – posted 28 February 2007 20:20

The only sure fire way to get rid of it is to excavate about 7-12 inches of soil (Granddad did that to his garden). I loath nut grass (sedge) so here is what I would do.1. Find out if it is purple or yellow or globe sedge2. Pull it up once3. Spray it with sedgehammer (Manage) or Image depending if it is yellow or purple.4. Wait 4-6 weeks.5. Repeat steps 2, 3, 4 until it is gone.

Good luck!!!!

JSLittle55 – posted 16 May 2008 06:39

Will Manage or Sedgehammer hurt flowering plants? The nutgrass problem I have is in a large memory garden. If I spray either of these 2 chemicals, will it kill the flowering plants?

Sherry-TX – posted 15 June 2008 11:37

I just read about using sugar or dried molasses to control weeds. I have a serious nut grass problem in a house I just moved into so I am going to give it a try – 1lb sugar to 250-300 sq ft it says, once in the Spring and once in the Fall. Premise behind the sugar is that weeds like poor soil, enrich the soil and the weed problem disappears. Won’t affect tree volunteers, but the weeds are suppose to be history. Fertilizer supposedly kills the benegicial microbes that enrich the soil. Can still use fertilizer but use it with the sugar and water them both into the soil and the sugar will keep the microbes alive. We’ll see if it works!

RoadiJeff – posted 12 July 2008 02:12

I have a LOT of nutsedge in my back yard that I guess I just let it get too far out of control before doing anything about it. Strangely, my front yard does not have this infestation and I don’t treat it any differently.

Earlier this week I bought a large amount of Sedgehammer. I did a lot of Google searching and the product that came up the most often to control nutsedge is Sedgehammer. Everyone who has used it says it works really well, although they say you might have to treat it multiple times (wait 4-6 weeks between applications) if you have a lot of it, like I do.

It’s not cheap if you buy the single 1-gallon packets but I bought a bottle that supposedly will mix 40 gallons worth off eBay. At $130 for the bottle that figures out to be just $3.25 per gallon versus $12-20 for the single packets.

The directions say to add 2 teaspoons (1/3 fluid ounce) of a nonionic surfactant (Dish Soap ie. Dawn, Palmolive or Joy or even vegetable oil) per gallon of spray solution.

Maybe after 4-5 applications of Sedgehammer over the next year I can finally get rid of this nutsedge. If not, I have a lot more Sedgehammer to keep trying. RoadiJeff – posted 12 July 2008 02:19

quote:Originally posted by JSLittle55:Will Manage or Sedgehammer hurt flowering plants? The nutgrass problem I have is in a large memory garden. If I spray either of these 2 chemicals, will it kill the flowering plants?

Here’s the warning I read about Sedgehammer.

GENERL RESTRICTIONS AND PRECAUTIONS:

For optimum results, do not mow turf for 2 days before or 2 days after application.

This product is effective if no rainfall occurs within 3 hours, but best results are obtained with no rainfall or irrigation for at least 4 hours.

This product may be used on seeded, sodded, or sprigged turfgrass that is well established. Allow the turf to develop a good root system and uniform stand before application.

Treated areas may be over seeded with annual or perennial ryegrass or Bermudagrass, 2 weeks after application.

Color plants or herbaceous ornamentals may be injured when transplanted into landscaped areas treated with SedgeHammer herbicide.

Avoid application of SedgeHammer herbicide when turfgrass or nutsedge is under stress since turf injury and poor nutsedge control may result.

Do not apply as an over-the-top spray to desirable flowers, ornamentals, vegetables, shrubs or trees.

Do not apply this product to golf course putting greens.

Do not apply this product through any type of irrigation system.

Do not apply this product by air.

cohiba – posted 29 August 2008 17:37

I used Dismiss last week and really smoked the nutsedge on the course. It also worked, albeit a little slower, on the goosegrass.Low use rates: 4 oz. per acre and cost about is about $36.00 per acre. AND it has 60 day residual activity! I will be using it on all fairways next week. No discoloring on the turf either.

FYI…………………….

PopeyetheTurtle – posted 29 August 2008 20:05

I, too, have been driven crazy by nut grass popping up throug a heavy turf grass (zoysia).

I was told of an old time remedy that costs literally nothing and wipes out nut grass. With nothing to lose, I put a pot of water to boiling on the stove. When it was really bubbling, I took it outside and poured it on the nutgrass, right at the base. Not a lot, just untill the nutgrass wilted.

The boiling water killed the nut grass – and the zoysia.

However, within two weeks the zoysia was growing back and it’s been 6 weeks and the nut grass has not returned.

The principle, I’ve been told, is that the boiling water actually is transmitted through the soil and kills the bulbs on the nut grass.

Last week, I went over the entire yard with boiling water. I have little round circles of dead zoysia and NO nut grass.

If you decide to use this method, make sure that you don’t use it over large areas, as the boiling water will also wipe out the beneficial organisms in the soil.

diane – posted 01 September 2008 18:28

Where do you live, Popeye and do you remember how you heard of this remedy? Will you keep us posted as to the hopefully terminal condition of the nut grass in your yard? Thanks

Future Written – posted 23 September 2008 12:21

Good news everyone. Bayer has developed a product called Bayer Lawn Weed Killer. It is available at Lowes and Home Depot. It is marketed to kill numerous types of lawn weeds, INCLUDING nutgrass. I bought the stuff for my nutgrass issue, thinking it probably would not work. IT DOES. Two applications killed the stuff. I do not know if it killed the entire plant (ie: nut and all), however within days the plant above ground was completely dead. I have used Sedgehammer with some success. I also tried Image- it killed the entire lawn. The new Bayer product is ready-mixed. It also killed dandelion and spurge in the lawn within a week. Go get some today!

Dash – posted 31 May 2009 14:54

I have a ton of Nut grass growing in an open mulched area that contains a row of Carl Forester ornamental grasses… With the Sedgehammer or manage harm the Ornamentals if I use them on the Nut Grass?

DavidB – posted 13 June 2009 14:20

Is the product “Image”, mentioned to control Nutgrass, the same as the “Image” used to control Crabgrass?

Thanks

gardengirl – posted 15 June 2009 08:11

Does anyone know how long to wait after new sod has been laid before you can apply something like Manage or Sedgehammer?

I have the same problem as mentioned already…soil was prepared, new sod was laid, now nutsedge is popping through.

Turfguy_UF – posted 15 June 2009 15:24

Four weeks for Sedgehammer.

TurfGuy

[This message has been edited by Turfguy_UF (edited 15 June 2009).]

[This message has been edited by Turfguy_UF (edited 15 June 2009).]

Ditchlily – posted 02 July 2009 09:22

I just put in a new day lily plant bed and it now has nut grass growing in it. Does anyone know if I can use any of the nut grass control products on my day lilies without killing them? I just planted about 500 named day lilies and there is a lot of money invested here.

Thanks!

Turfguy_UF – posted 02 July 2009 12:16

Sedgehammer should also work with your new Day Lilys but you must read the label as there are specific instructions as to how soon you can apply Sedgehammer to newly planted flower beds.

Hope it helps,Turfguy

Arabonita – posted 10 July 2009 17:10

Where did you buy it?

quote:Originally posted by cohiba:I used Dismiss last week and really smoked the nutsedge on the course. It also worked, albeit a little slower, on the goosegrass.Low use rates: 4 oz. per acre and cost about is about $36.00 per acre. AND it has 60 day residual activity! I will be using it on all fairways next week. No discoloring on the turf either.

FYI…………………….

JobShop – posted 30 July 2009 22:47

I live in Houston. A large area of my property is thickly covered with mature liriope which has been there for years. Suddenly and for no reason I can think of, nut grass has appeared fairly densely and uniformly throughout the field. It is everywhere. Does anyone have any idea where it might have come from? If I can get rid of it I sure don’t want it to come back so knowing what caused this epidemic may help. Thanks!

cohiba – posted 03 August 2009 19:32

quote:Originally posted by Arabonita:Where did you buy it?

I purchased it from CPS. Crop Protection Services. But you should be able to get it locally from either John Deere Landscapes or Helena Chemical. Look in the phone book under pesticides or farm chemicals. Agway may have it as well.

cohiba – posted 06 August 2009 18:06

John Deere Landscapes, has dismiss in two ounce bottles for around $40. Two ounces will do 1/2 acre.

FYI………………….

MarkS – posted 29 August 2009 16:20

It does limit the amount of nutgrass by pulling them out for consecutive days. At some point it is important to spray the area that was infested with Sedgehammer, Manage or Bayer Advanced. Don’t wait for them to come back to spray again. Once it rains spray again. And then one more time after the second rain. This should fully eradicate them. If you are close to fall don’t spray but overseed, but mark on the calendar when they appeared and spray the following season slightly before that time and again after the next rain.

luisc – posted 16 September 2009 08:58

quote:Originally posted by Future Written:Good news everyone. Bayer has developed a product called Bayer Lawn Weed Killer. It is available at Lowes and Home Depot. It is marketed to kill numerous types of lawn weeds, INCLUDING nutgrass. I bought the stuff for my nutgrass issue, thinking it probably would not work. IT DOES. Two applications killed the stuff. I do not know if it killed the entire plant (ie: nut and all), however within days the plant above ground was completely dead. I have used Sedgehammer with some success. I also tried Image- it killed the entire lawn. The new Bayer product is ready-mixed. It also killed dandelion and spurge in the lawn within a week. Go get some today!

I do not think this can be used on St Augustine though per the label.

[This message has been edited by luisc (edited 16 September 2009).]

asiaphile – posted 13 December 2009 12:13

I’ve read that though Manage will work, over the long run this herbicide will also kill your grass. Who has evidence for or against this assertion? I have zoysiagrass. Please answer quickly. I live in Vietnam but am in America now. If suitable, I want to buy Manage while I’m here because not available there.

cohiba – posted 16 December 2009 13:44

I have been using on Perennial Ryegrass, and Kentucky Bluegrass for about 15 years with no ill effects. In that time I have used it on fairway hieght Bentgrass and had major browning/die back. BUT, the bentgrass made a full recovery within two-three weeks. There is a new product out called Tower. Not sure if homeowners are able to use it though.

I am testing it out in the spring.

Dismiss Rules though.

Kevin7 – posted 09 January 2010 10:20

Nut grass chocked and killed my tomatoes and other vegetables in my garden last year. Before the nutgrass took over my garden, I was told that Sedgehammer would kill the vegetables and to apply in the winter. How can I kill it without damaging the soil?

ginger – posted 21 March 2010 12:59

I live in Nashville and have been overrun with nutsedge and star of bethlehem (SOB) in my yard. The UT Extension guys recommended Dismiss for both, so I’ve had the lawn sprayed. The guys said that it might take one repeat spraying, probably next year, to get 100%, but this is a small price to pay for such an obstinate weed. SOB is dying down (hallelujah!), but it’s still too early to spray for nutsedge. It’ll happen in the summer when the stuff is up, and I’ve got great confidence that by this time next year, my yard will be back to it’s former beautiful state. I’ll be back then with the rest of the story…..

Free Man – posted 25 May 2010 13:08

So has anyone had a chance to actually use Dismiss? If so how has it worked, what has it done, in what time period, to your sedge population?

Can you buy dismiss at Lesco?

How does it compare to Sedgehammer?

AMG – posted 12 August 2010 15:31

I live in San Diego. I recently cut the top couple inches of my lawn off using a sod cutter, I then added 6-8 bags of Kellogg amend, and also needed some more so I picked up some from my local “soil” guy who said it was amend. I mixed the two and then rototilled it in to the soil. I graded it out flat and watered it a few times to see if any bermuda (the grass before) would come back. Just a couple days later I had some grass shooting through, but it didn’t look like bermuda, but it seems it is nut grass. I can only guess it came from the soil guy down the road. So this is only 2-3 weeks old, I have tried round-up. I bought some Sedgehammer today and havent used it yet. I was wondering if you can all confirm from the photo. Also, do you think with as new (infant stage) as the nutgrass is in my lawn, I should deal with Sedgehammer or should I dedicate the hours necessary to pick each nut out that is sprouting and throw it away? I think I have about 300-400sqft of where there is grass coming through. Any thoughts? Also if i have to get my hands dirty for many many hours, if i rip out the nut but the little root that extends beyond the nut stays, can that turn in to a nut? I wouldnt think so. I would think as NEW as this is, getting the nuts is the killer?

link to photo =

dearheart – posted 19 August 2010 14:50

I moved to Central CA 2 years ago and custom landscaped both the front and back yards. After the landscaper was done he said…oh by the way you have a lot of nut grass. I have tried everything. Here’s what works, Sedge Hammer and Roundup. However, you CANNOT kill it all. Be very careful if you apply it to your lawn. It will kill parts of your lawn even though it says it will not. Use both in your beds BEFORE they grow big. Again, if you have a lot of it as I do, you will NEVER kill it all. Try not to water for 24 hours after applying either herbicide.

AMG – posted 19 August 2010 17:43

I have been picking it out piece by piece. I take a shovel, shovel off a big chunk, pick out the nutlets and then continue on. i’m over 1/2 way through my lawn. i hope to get most, obviously not all, and then as the new grows in (I am just dirt for now) i can pick those out and continue on and on until i have 99.9% and then hopefully sedgehammer will take care of the rest and keep it in check

I’ll post a photo of all that i picked soon

kemyd – posted 19 August 2010 18:26

Did anyone hear about this “sugar” solution to nutgrass? seems far fetched, but I’m willing to try

kcfremontparks – posted 19 August 2010 19:21

DO NOT PULL THE NUTSEDGE. This can cause the plant to come back extremly vigorously. I have tried Manage, Certainty and Dismiss. I feel the Dismiss has worked the best of the three and if you will apply it before the longest day of the year (june 21st) then you may also get some of the pre-emerg. qualities of the product. This is a restricted use pesticide and should only be applied by a cert. applicator.

AMG – posted 19 August 2010 22:41

kemyd, i saw some reference to that here:

Mackdaweeder – posted 21 August 2010 14:11

Hi Jeff! I am having a problem with Sedge. My two questions are, what were your results with Sedgehammer and what part of the country are you in? Thanks for any help you can give me!

Mackdaweeder

quote:Originally posted by RoadiJeff: Here’s the warning I read about Sedgehammer.

GENERL RESTRICTIONS AND PRECAUTIONS:

For optimum results, do not mow turf for 2 days before or 2 days after application.

This product is effective if no rainfall occurs within 3 hours, but best results are obtained with no rainfall or irrigation for at least 4 hours.

This product may be used on seeded, sodded, or sprigged turfgrass that is well established. Allow the turf to develop a good root system and uniform stand before application.

Treated areas may be over seeded with annual or perennial ryegrass or Bermudagrass, 2 weeks after application.

Color plants or herbaceous ornamentals may be injured when transplanted into landscaped areas treated with SedgeHammer herbicide.

Avoid application of SedgeHammer herbicide when turfgrass or nutsedge is under stress since turf injury and poor nutsedge control may result.

Do not apply as an over-the-top spray to desirable flowers, ornamentals, vegetables, shrubs or trees.

Do not apply this product to golf course putting greens.

Do not apply this product through any type of irrigation system.

Do not apply this product by air.

AMG – posted 28 August 2010 12:20

I have recently had a few nightmares about nutsedge. I am 100% dead serious. I have spent so many hours picking this damn crap out of my dirt lawn (soon to be sod) that it has been in my mind a lot. I has dreams 2 nights in a row about this.

I hate it.

Mackdaweeder – posted 15 May 2011 10:33

quote:Originally posted by RoadiJeff: Here’s the warning I read about Sedgehammer.

GENERL RESTRICTIONS AND PRECAUTIONS:

For optimum results, do not mow turf for 2 days before or 2 days after application.

This product is effective if no rainfall occurs within 3 hours, but best results are obtained with no rainfall or irrigation for at least 4 hours.

This product may be used on seeded, sodded, or sprigged turfgrass that is well established. Allow the turf to develop a good root system and uniform stand before application.

Treated areas may be over seeded with annual or perennial ryegrass or Bermudagrass, 2 weeks after application.

Color plants or herbaceous ornamentals may be injured when transplanted into landscaped areas treated with SedgeHammer herbicide.

Avoid application of SedgeHammer herbicide when turfgrass or nutsedge is under stress since turf injury and poor nutsedge control may result.

Do not apply as an over-the-top spray to desirable flowers, ornamentals, vegetables, shrubs or trees.

Do not apply this product to golf course putting greens.

Do not apply this product through any type of irrigation system.

Do not apply this product by air.

Mackdaweeder – posted 15 May 2011 10:39

I had a major sedge problem in my lawn last year. From advice in this forum, I purchased Sedgehammer at John Deere Landscapes. One application killed it all. It took about two weeks for the plant to lose it’s roots and become easy to remove. Anyway, so far this year I have seen zero signs of it recurring. I am located in central New Jersey.

awin4me – posted 23 May 2011 23:33

Typically Sedges have two cycles, even if you apply Sedgehammer to kill the visible weeds you will need to apply it again once the seeds left in the soil germinate again.

I actually noticed the chemical in Scotts liquid fertilizer with weed control actually killed off some sedge in my yard. I was actually surprised.

But yeah I’d stick with Sedgehammer as your best choice

SouthrnIL – posted 17 July 2011 18:02

quote:Originally posted by PopeyetheTurtle:I, too, have been driven crazy by nut grass popping up throug a heavy turf grass (zoysia).

I was told of an old time remedy that costs literally nothing and wipes out nut grass. With nothing to lose, I put a pot of water to boiling on the stove. When it was really bubbling, I took it outside and poured it on the nutgrass, right at the base. Not a lot, just untill the nutgrass wilted.

The boiling water killed the nut grass – and the zoysia.

However, within two weeks the zoysia was growing back and it’s been 6 weeks and the nut grass has not returned.

The principle, I’ve been told, is that the boiling water actually is transmitted through the soil and kills the bulbs on the nut grass.

Last week, I went over the entire yard with boiling water. I have little round circles of dead zoysia and NO nut grass.

If you decide to use this method, make sure that you don’t use it over large areas, as the boiling water will also wipe out the beneficial organisms in the soil.

I’m curious, now that it has been a couple of years if this is still the method you’d recommend? Thanks for your thoughts.

SouthrnIL – posted 17 July 2011 18:03

quote:Originally posted by cohiba:I have been using on Perennial Ryegrass, and Kentucky Bluegrass for about 15 years with no ill effects. In that time I have used it on fairway hieght Bentgrass and had major browning/die back. BUT, the bentgrass made a full recovery within two-three weeks. There is a new product out called Tower. Not sure if homeowners are able to use it though.

I am testing it out in the spring.

Dismiss Rules though.

Is Dismiss still your 2011 choice for eradicating Nut Grass? Thanks for the feedback.

SouthrnIL – posted 17 July 2011 18:05

quote:Originally posted by kemyd:Did anyone hear about this “sugar” solution to nutgrass? seems far fetched, but I’m willing to try

Did you end up trying the sugar? What were your results?

Davo – posted 23 August 2011 12:30

MSMA Herbicide is selective and after your sod has been established for 3 months(no less) you can control your nut grass/sedge with this weed killer without damage to your lawn. Always follow the instructions provided with MSMA ,,,it comes in many brand names including sedge hammer, image and sempra all of which are pure MSMA you can buy these online worldwide from various online shops however you must respect your local laws regarding herbicide use. A few websites I will suggest are ecoseeding . com .au (for Australia) mycostadelivery .com/nutgrassshopusa.htm (for USA)or just type the brand names into google and find a local supplier to you hope this helps

quote:Originally posted by Liane:I am nearly beside myself.

I live in the British Virgin Islands and have just had Zoysia sod laid in my yard. The fellow who laid it said that Zoysia grass was too thick for nutgrass to come through and that I shouldn’t worry about digging it all up. Not quite believing him, (after I had seen how resilient this devil weed really is) … I was still digging the stuff the morning they came to lay the sod. Unfortunately, there were still several places I had not managed to get to.

Prior to the sod being laid, I used every weed killer known to man (including Gramozone, Round Up and 2,4-D) to try to eradicate all the nutgrass and other weeds in my yard which was previously overrun with wild tamarind trees and various other weeds. It took months to get rid of all the weeds successfully, but the darned nutgrass persisted.

Under the sod, the yard is mainly very heavy clay mixed with rocks. Lots of rocks! He put a thin layer (maybe 2 inches) of Pro Mix/sand and soil on top of the clay before laying the sod.

After reading this and other forums, I am really concerned that his advise regarding the nutgrass may not have been accurate! My sod is only four days old and has not yet taken hold of the ProMix/Sand/Soil mixture he put on top.

Now I am worried that the thousands of dollars I just spent on my lawn may have been wasted and that the nutgrass will pop its ugly little head through the grass in a matter of weeks and possibly days!

I am really concerned that this stuff is going to appear in the lawn. I have potted a few of the “nuts” I dug out and plan to do some trial and error on it to see if any houselhold products will safely kill this stuff without damage to my lawn. This morning I brushed on some Malt Vinegar to see what the results might be and will report back if I am able to find something (anything) which works.

We don’t have Sedgehammer or Image available here, but I suppose I could import some if my tests are unsuccessful. I’m going to try a mixture of salt and water on the patio where some nutgrass is already rearing its ugly head between the patio stones.

I can’t remember if it was this forum or another, but somebody suggested that nutgrass cannot tolerate drought. Not so! We often have very high temperatures and long periods of drought and the nutgrass is alive and doing very well. Darn it!

Any suggestions of things to try would be greatly appreciated! I HATE nutgrass!

Houndawg – posted 24 February 2012 21:59

I have an area I’m cleaning all grasses off for future planting. I got rid of Bermuda and crabb grasses. But the nut grass remained. I dug up the nut grass and put them in the waste. Nut grass came up the entire Summer. Those little pests don’t germinate at the same time. Finally towards late Summer they started showing up less. There was no Adult plants since the prior year. It’s all in when those things decide to sprout.

Houndawg – posted 24 February 2012 22:19

Inside this area I brought in logs and wood and piled it up and made large fires. In those spots I got rid of everything. No nut grass survived. But I just did not have enough wood to burn the whole area like that.

Houndawg – posted 24 February 2012 22:43

Just so it don’t sound too extreme. I was also clearing wild plum. Many of those I had to pull out of the ground with a come along jack.

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