Bermudagrass Renovation Project and Shady areas

jdmdog – posted 17 June 2006 13:28

hi group,I’m in the process of gathering information on how to renovate my existing bermudagrass lawn (pretty sure it is a common variety). I’ve done a lot of reading on this forum and I’ll be implementing the suggestions regarding mowing, fertilizing, and watering.

I’ll be mowing shorter (as short as I can with a rotary mower). I’ll be getting a soil test. And, I’ll irrigate smarter. However, I still have a few questions regarding my particular situation.

My property appears to be relatively small compared to those on this board about .4 acre and the temps get hot and dry and not too cold (Sacramento, CA).

1. As I’ve mentioned, I currently have a common bermuda lawn. Is there a seeded variety that will play nice with my current grass?

2. I currently own a rotary mower. I don’t have immediate plans to switch to a reel mower. Is there a seeded variety that works well with a higher mowing height? Bermudagrass.com suggests Transcontinental.

3. I have a large area that gets full sun, but I also have another area that gets partial sun due to large oaks. As you might guess the grass is in poorer condition in this area. What can be done here? Would it be best to plant a different variety of grass in this area? Wouldn’t the mowing height be incompatible with my bermuda.

4. I see a lot of mention of LESCO products. I have a local LESCO in the area. Are their products superior?

5. I have a clover in portions of the lawn. Which methods work best for improving this situation? Will mowing shorter help or are herbicidal remedies my best option.

Thanks.

-jd

wrangler – posted 17 June 2006 19:38

jdmdog

If you are going to shift from a common bermuda to a seeded type there are a few things you need to bear in mind. 1) Even if you kill the top growth of your existing bermudagrass with glyphosate (Roundup) and plant into dry, brown grass you will still have some common variety survive. Bermudagrass is very small and is slow to establish.

There is research @ Virginia University that suggests that if you 1) Kill out as much commom bermuda as possible 2) plant to Riviera and mow @ 1/2″ with a reel mower you will evenutally have a solid stand of Riviera but it may take 2-3 years. If you are going to shift pedigrees I would plant a bermudagrass that is conducive to low mowing ei. Riviera, Tift 419, Tiftsport, Patriot and mow @ 1/2″ w/ a reel mower or will have areas of common bermudagrass. That should answer the 1st 2 questions. Bermudagrass and shade do no mix more especially seeded bermudagrass. Consider establishing a “shade zone” and planting a cool season grass that is common in your area ei Fescue or Bluegrass in the shade zone. As for Lesco, I do not work directly with them but know to company and thier employees to be very competant professionals. As for clover, when and if you kill out the existing stand of bermudagrass with glyphosate, you will most likely kill the clover.

Good Luck,The Wrangler

jdmdog – posted 18 June 2006 14:53

Thanks for the reply. From what you’re saying it sounds like an all-or-nothing proposition. That is, kill the common stuff and plant a seeded improved variety.

Have other had success with a particular seed variety that will work well with an existing lawn common bermuda lawn?

Grassguy – posted 18 June 2006 20:27

Hybrid bermuda is only available in a vegitative form. All seeded varietys are common, or improved commons. Sahara and Yuma are to good bermuda types to mix for genetic diversity. Bermuda grass has no shade tolerance. If its shaded or receives filtered sun it will thin and die. Bermuda seed will sprout within 7 to 10 days if planted properly,(give or take). if you wont to use a reel mower get a manual reel mower by mclane or great states, I have one and It works great. A reel mower is the best when cutting the new seedling sprouts for the first time. A rotary mower is known as an “Impact” type mower while a reel is a scissor type which does alot less damage to the turf blade minimizing the possibility for pathogen entry into the leaf. Check out seedland.com for a great breakdown of all the available bermuda seed.

wrangler – posted 19 June 2006 06:28

jdmdog,

To be quite frank, if you have a well established lawn of common bermudagrass your best bet is to manage fertility, weeds and watering on the bermudagrass and address your shade zone seperatly. There are turf mgt. professionals that are strugling to shift from common bermudagrass to imporved seeded types. Heck I am working with a University that removed 2″ of sod, leveled the field and laid sod and they are still seeing the common starting to invade their playing surface. I wish we had a magic bullet to fit your needs.

jdmdog – posted 19 June 2006 18:50

thanks wrangler,i’ll just have to find a way to improve and love my common bermuda lawn .

last question… I hope. Grassguy. Are you suggesting using Sahara and Yuma with my common? If not, does anyone know which seed type(s) would be a good match to overseed my patchy areas that are in full sun? thanks.

Grassguy – posted 19 June 2006 20:24

sahara any yuma are an improved variety of bermuda grass. If you currently have plain old standard common the sahara and yuma will yield darker green color and be lower(denser) growing. If you re-seed at a rate of 14 seeds per square inchthe new variety will take over, just be sure to kill off most of what you currently have. you can successfully re-establish with the newer cultivars. If you are killing your current stand with round up throw down 2 lbs per 1000 of 34-0-0 to encourage any left over stolons to pop up so you can kill them as well. dont plant after the middle of august, even at that time its pushing it.if you are looking to create genetic diversity its not advised to over seed bermuda in an established lawn. seeds and established turf have different watering requirements. seed needs frequent light irrigation, established turf needs deep infrequent irrigation. adhering to one water schedule over the other will neglect one of the 2.

Don – posted 02 July 2006 15:42

I’ve read in a couple places in this topic string that bermuda and shade don’t mix, I have one last question on the subject. In a few weeks I’ll be putting in a yard in a newly constructed home in the Fort Worth TX area, ON a wooded acre. Being originally from the north, St Augustine reminds me of crab grass, so I prefer the looks of Bermuda.

I had a landscaper tell me last week that Blackjack Bermuda is more shade tolerant than normal Bermuda. He thinks Blackjack will do fine on my lot. I cannot find any data for the sun-shade requirements of Blackjack Bermuda.

Does anyone have an comments?ThanksDon