sampson – posted 23 January 2003 13:35
I have a lab and a shepard mix. I have read about the Hybrid Bermuda GN-1 and St. Augustine. Which is better? I read some of the answers and your recommended Bermuda. This is my 4th lawn. Help.
Lawn Guy – posted 01 March 2003 16:21
St. augustine, lots of water, well fertilized, this is the most durable grass for dogs. The blades are massive compared to other grasses. This is surely your best choice.
percussiveone – posted 14 March 2003 09:42
i would recommend st augustine too, and you might look into floratam – one of the hardier cultivars of st augustine.
doglover – posted 01 April 2003 19:55
Zoysia is another option you might want to look into. I have two very active Siberian Huskies and a huge backyard where I’m planning on putting down Zoyzia sod. I chose this because it is suppose to have a high wear tolerance, as opposed to St. Augustine which has a low wear tolerance (my current lawn has paths cut into it from where the dogs run up and down along the fence line). Zoysia sod vs plugs seems to be the best options, especially particularly given Zoyzia is so slow growing. Zoysia seems to have many positive sides, but ensure you buy from a local dealer, as Zoyzia purchased from outside of your state may end up not being suitable for growth in your area. It’s best to get professional input on Zoysia because I understand it can be difficult to grow. Please note that I’ve yet to actually try it out; just researched it enough to know it seems to be suitable for my climate (Texas), my active pups, and my preferences in type of lawn (low maintenance, produces a thick carpet and is green year ’round. Any input/comments from experts or the experienced??
frenchman – posted 01 April 2003 21:04
Doglover, Zoysia is not green all year round, definitely not in Texas
sbr – posted 10 April 2003 10:40
Just wondering if St Augustine would grow well in NE Pennsylvania? I have a large lab that has totally destroyed the lawn in my backyard!
AFK – posted 10 April 2003 14:05
Get rid of the damn dog. I dont understand how people with dogs in their yards expect to have flawless green lawns. Unless your dog is old and hardly runs around, or its as small as a rat, then your lawn will get messed up regardless of the type of grass. Keep it on a leash or train it how to walk on the grass’s side and crap/urinate in a mix box.
ted – posted 11 April 2003 12:27
unbelievable responses. zoysia is no magic grass, i assure you. for it’s advantages on diseases and pests, it has just as many disadvantages like thatch, etc. it will not grown in the northern parts of the country, it will not stay green anywhere all year long, almost no grass does, it’s part of the plants defense mechanism to “shut down” and go dormant to escape stresses. i’ve been in the business for 20 years and have had many dogs during that time. if you will maintain you lawn to a reasonable level, meaning water, fertilize and mow correctly you will have absolutely no problem. take care of your lawn and keep the dog! the dog shouldn’t suffer just because you won’t spend money to maintain the lawn. Comments like “get rid of the dog” are completely irresponsible.
sbr – posted 11 April 2003 13:18
Wow, you guys(or gals?) are rough! I was just looking for a little friendly advice. Of course I spend the money it takes to maintain a nice lawn – the front lawn looks great. It’s just the back that could use some work since I have a mix of sun/shade and a large dog who likes to run around. Believe me, I’ve tried a number of different strategies with not much success and I’m not willing to get rid of the dog. Sorry I asked.
frenchman – posted 11 April 2003 22:27
AFK, if that’s all you have to say is get rid of the dam dog, go elsewhere. This site is to help people. If you can’t say something helpful don’t say anything at all.
ted – posted 12 April 2003 09:06
sbr: it sounds like you’ve got the right plan going and you genuinely want to have a nice lawn. however,as lawn care professionals, we get really frustrated for you, the homeowners, hearing all of this “sage” advice that turns out to be completely false. St. Augustine is a gulf coast grass that absolutely will not grow in pennsylvania! I wouldn’t want to see you waste your time and money on such a ridiculous proposition. again, it sounds like you have a landscape design and maintenance issue. grass needs 4-6 hours per day to thrive. you might look into selective pruning of the trees or using ground cover/plants in place of grass in certain locations. i would think fine fescue or bluegrass would be an excellent choice in your situation. there’s definitely a solution , no question. Check with your local county extension office or chemical lawn care company, they will be able to diagnose your situation for free. One thing that’s definitely not a solution is to abuse animals because a homeowner doesn’t take the time or effort to educate themselves on the subject matter! We have a saying: there’s no bad dogs, just bad owners….As for the zoysia, it got it’s start as a marketing gimmick in the diy magazines many years ago. True, it has certain advantages, such as pest and disease resistance, however, it doesn’t grow in the northern regions of the country, either. It also has a terrible thatch problem, and you really need to mow it with a special type of mower. It can look great it in the right situation, but so can many other grasses as well.
Will-PCB – posted 14 April 2003 20:00
Yep … I agree completely. I think its genuinely retarded to post something such as that AFK, and I can only hope that you or Phil would edit that post in such a manner as to be less abrasive. Afterall, this is not a bashing forum, its a help forum and it thrives on having new folks (such as I was last year) come, get comfy, and hang around.
The trashy response you gave AFK only serves to steer someone away who otherwise might have come back and contributed their continuing experiences/solutions nicely.
Remember … “Knowlege shared is knowlege squared.”
I also agree with trying fescue. Seems like a pretty darn good grass for Northern climates from what I have read on it. Sure looks pretty when maintained.
Good luck and let us know what you decide and how it turns out!
FelixM – posted 15 April 2003 05:58
I’m from South Africa, and have found that Pennisetum clandestinum or Kikuyu is the best. Originated from the East African highlands. It is a creeping perrenial with stolons and rhizomes and is a particularly vigorous, light green grass that grows well in most areas except coastal where it battles with the humidity. It has a high wearability and ability to recuperate well – nontheless has poor shade tolerance.
AFK – posted 15 April 2003 08:35
Geesh, now that I read it, that was kinda harsh. Sorry guys, was having a bad day. A really bad day.
ted – posted 17 April 2003 16:39
Ok, let’s all give each other a great big turf hug….. Given the kind of misinformation that’s out there it’s certainly understandable when people come up with drastic , harsh measures. While I always recommend going with the professionals, I understand that people want to do things themselves for whatever reason. It just gets really frustrating to see people go out and spend money and time and get all worked up over their lawns, just because their neighbor, or dad, or some dork at the local hardware store told them about some old farmers tale about how to fix your lawn! The best sources for turf info are your local county extension agent, local universities, or your local chemical lawn care company. Now, let’s all have a nice day, gather in a big circle,and sing ” We Are The World!”
Stoney – posted 29 August 2003 02:21
This was not included as far as I read, and I am sure I am pointing out the obvious to many….however…female dogs have a much different ph in their urine than males, which will “burn” your grass no matter what type you plant. I don’t know if “burnt” patches are part of the problem, but if so, this is probably the reason. If you have a female dog you may want to hose down the area she urinates in to dilute the effects of her urine on your grass.
redbird – posted 29 August 2003 08:21
My 2 cents worth on the dog issue (culled from the wisdom of others and put into practice):
If you have the time or it isn’t too late, address your dog’s “potty habits” – i.e, either walk the dog and have it go in a specific area every time that you won’t care about if it suffers damage (roadside rough area), or a spot on your property that you have designated for this purpose and don’t care about (behind a bush or tree). If you are crossing open lawn area to get to the designated spot, you will have to carry the dog to prevent him from “going” along the way and defeating your training goal (hard to do with a big dog!). Another option is to have a small mulched area just beside the back door set aside for this purpose (3′ X 3′). You can teach the dog that this is the place to go by controlling it’s movements, confining it to this area (by leash) until it “goes,” then praising it. Eventually you will be able to just open the back door and the well-trained dog will “go” in his spot.
I have personally opted to walk the dog to a specified rough roadside spot behind a tree line bordering my property. The dog (puppy – 6 months old) has occasional “accidents” while playing in the backyard with my son, resulting in small burned areas ( we often cannot tell that he is releasing urine during play, and even if we did, I probably wouldn’t expect my 11 year old to stop playing with his dog and hose down the area – realistically, it just won’t happen). I am trying Dchall’s method of sprinkling granulated sugar on the burn spots to organically speed the rate of repair – not really sure yet how much it helps.
Regarding wear, Empire Zoysia wears very well – but I would not recommend any zoysia lawn up north – too little green time.
l – posted 10 September 2003 15:40
i too have doggie problems. I have put in three all new lawns and all have turned up bad. i have a doberman and am willing to re-do lawn 1xtime. i live in san diego and am thinking about st aug. what do you think?
rallanarsenal – posted 18 September 2003 12:41
Hi people ! I’m in the uk and was looking for advice on grass care as i have like most brits a postage stamp size garden and two bitches. I maintain the grass well however i do miss some and we get the burn patches. Up till now, i hace cut the piece out and re-turfed. Please keep the info going on the sugar idea! fantastic ! I’ll try it hear and let you know, only hope the neibours don’t have me sectioned when they see me sprinkling the sugar ! As for the guy going on about getting rid of the dogs and stop moaning… get a life you muppet, we love our dogs and the garden, don’t visit if you don’t have anything valid to say.
redbird – posted 18 September 2003 12:54
Unregistered in San Diego – Very few lawns can take the abuse caused by a large dog who runs/plays in a repeated pattern (up and down in a line along one side of a fence for instance, over and over). All grasses react to dog urine as if it were battery acid.
Your best bet (ONLY if you have full sun) is bermuda. It is tough, resistant to wear, and virtually impossible to kil – even intentionally. If you damage it, it will quickly grow back. The down side – it is high maintenance and will work you to death with frequent fertilization and cutting. But it can make a gorgeous lawn if you commit to the work.
St. Augustine will never hold up to the abuse of a large dog. It can’t take the wear.
2 black try’s – posted 20 September 2003 12:39
I have a house in North Florida, we have two Austailian Shepeards (40-50 lbs). Our St. Augustine lawn holds up very well. The dogs are walked daily which I’m sure helps.
As everyone knows, this grass must be watered and does not take cold well, but other than that, it seems to be as tough as can be.
I agree with the idea of mulching the paths the dogs take, which are frequently along the fence. This looks nice as well and many dogs don’t mind walking in it.
Bitch urin is murder on lawns, particularly if she is intact. I know of no solution to this except watering the area aftewards.
I hope this helps.
odinsmom – posted 02 April 2004 12:56
I just want to say that my vet told me that grass burns are a sign of a healthy urinary tract in dogs: male and female. Unless you have alot of extra time on your hands you probably won’t get rid of all the problems with a large dog. Training the dogs to go in one spot helps alot. There are also products at pet stores to spray on the grass after your dog goes, but I know I don’t want to follow my dog around with a spray bottle ready:P
Dchall_San_Antonio – posted 04 April 2004 12:56
In Pennsylvania you might try tall fescue, seeded in the fall, to take over the area. The roots on that plant will stand up to anything, so at least the grass ‘should’ come back if it gets mowed off by the dog.
I just got a new dog, about 2 years old, and very frisky. She loves to run and chase, so it will be interesting to see how the St Augustine in full shade holds up. The grass really flies when she’s caught the Frisbee and plays keep-away. With my older, geriatric dog, his problem was that he tried to bury his poop with poop. That dug up the grass all in one spot. St Augustine spreads with runners above the ground and his scratching would clear out the area pretty good. At least this new dog is running at full speed and not all in the same spot.
Kikuyu is an invasive grass in California. It might be banned in some places. Interesting to hear that it works in South Africa. I know nutgrass is a problem in most places but not where I live, so there you go.
redbird, let us know whether the table sugar works or not. Either way we need to continue to evaluate under what conditions something might work – or not. These Internet forums are excellent for spreading that type of information.
Nydiroth – posted 04 April 2004 17:29
I have two dogs, an older working dog and an energetic 1yr old puppy. I get about 3-4hrs of sun in the morning in Baltimore, MD.
I found that a mix of perennial rygrass and creeping red fescue do well. I overseed about 1x week with mix of sand and non-fertilized soil. I have my “race-track” around the fence, but it’s expected. The reason I do not fertilize as the dog’s urine contains nitrogen and I had slow/stunted growth with ferts. With male dogs, water 3x the amount of urine (I guess the amount of urine, never measured the volume) helps. With females, whom have a higher nitrogen content in the urine, water the area 5-6x the amount of urine.
I’ve established a poop area with play sand. Makes it easier to clean and not tear up any grass. I also keep the grass high, about 1″ and only cut 1/4″ at a time, alternating directions each time.
Hope this helps Dave
ScottA – posted 17 April 2004 08:40
Has anyone ever heard of adding fruit juice such as cranberry to the dogs drinking water to add sugar to the urine thus adding sugar to the point of contact in the lawn through the source?
GrassMaster – posted 17 April 2004 08:49
Nutritional supplements for dogs’ water are a waste of money. No vet or breeder I’ve ever spoken to has anything positive to say about trying to change the dog’s urine composition.
The best bet is just to hose down the spots within a few hours of urination and pick up the feces frequently.
GrassMaster – posted 17 April 2004 08:51
Anyone have suggestions for a lawn in Southeast Michigan? I am having a hard time training my dog to go in one spot and I can’t always catch a spot and hose it down right after she urinates. I am thinking I need something very hearty and durable.
Garrett – posted 02 May 2004 22:54
A person told me they use 2 tablespoons of tomato juice poured over their dogs food each feeding to keep their grass from being burned by urin. (I have no way to verify the condition of their lawn). Does this make sense to anyone???
Garrett – posted 02 May 2004 23:10
I just went to Google and did a search on “preventing dog urine burns on grass”. The first site to come up – there were several- “lawnsdogs” said DO NOT alter your dogs diet with tomato juice, cider vinegar, etc. without checking with your vet first. It said these types of treatments can cause urinary tract and heart problems. I guess I’d better tell the person who gave me this advice.
bsrox – posted 20 February 2005 00:35
Garrett, DO NOT ALTER YOUR DOG(S) DIET! If you’re worried about their urine “burning” your lawn, you can order “Lawn Guard” from Dr. Foster Smith catalog/online or use a product called “Green-Ums”. Actually, your dog’s urine will not burn your grass unless she/he urinates frequently in the same spot. If you can get your dog to urinate in a different spot each time, your grass (bermuda, definitely) will be an extremely deep rich green color. Trust me on this one. My little guy has gotten lazy that he now barely leaves the porch and the pills do help. However, he still needs to “get around” the yard, so to speak. The pills can only do so much. If the dog won’t move on, you will have some dead grass due to the excessive “nitrogen” (I think that’s the word) expelled through the urination.
JJ – posted 20 April 2005 06:51
Thanks for all the great tips! We live in NE Pennsylvania too, with five dogs in a smallish shaded yard. We have really lush green areas and really dead dirt spots and everything in between. I’m going to try regular watering and see if it makes a difference. What about lime to decrease the acidity of the soil?
Appreciate the wisdom and input!-JJ
ez – posted 03 May 2005 20:28
I too have heard that tomato juice can help the lawn spots. The lady I talked to said she gives her female dog a tablespoon a day. The dog is 4or5 years old, so if she has problems with her she did not mention it. I have Kentucky bluegrass in my backyard and two big dogs that pound the heck out of the grass. it looks terrible and no amount of water (or fertilizer) seems to help. I live in utah, high in the mountains, and bluegrass is pretty in the front yard, but the back is awful. I havn’t tried the tomato juice trick with my own female dog, but will check with the vet to see what they say. (I’ve been too lazy to try the juice trick, to be honest) I’ve decided that I love my dogs, and the backyard is fenced with a tall wood fence, so my neighbors don’t see it, just me!
Iastboyscout – posted 14 May 2005 02:06
Just found this elsewhere….Dog owners, tired of splotches of urine-killed grass? There is help at hand!
Most people understandably want to change their dog’s urine so that it no longer scalds the grass. It seems obvious that urine must burn due to its acidity, and there are additives or foods that will make the urine more alkaline. The catch is that it’s not the acidity of your dog’s urine that scalds the grass, but the nitrogen content. (Dog-On-It Lawn Problems, Turfgrass Resources Center.) By making the urine less acid, you do nothing to preserve your lawn, and you also put your dog’s health at risk. Carnivore urine is meant to be acidic, and this acidity may help prevent bacterial infections of the urinary tract and other possible health problems, including some kinds of stones. (Note: Other kinds of stones thrive in an acid urine, so if your dog has been diagnosed with a condition for which an alkaline urine is recommended, be sure to follow your vet’s advice.)
What is the caring dog owner who also loves the lawn to do?
I have one word of advice: Clover. Over-seed your existing turf with clover suited for your climate and soil type.
Clover has many, many benefits. It stays green with far less water than grass. It needs less mowing. It shades out weeds. It fixes nitrogen in the soil and needs no fertilizing, ever. Most importantly for dog lovers, it does not scald when your dogs pee on it. Isn’t it better to use a lawn plant like clover that is in every way superior to turf, including in its tolerance for dogs using it for a toilet?
Some people find the lovely little flowers a plus. Others object to them because they attract bees. However, they are attracting honey bees, and honey bees rarely sting away from the hive. If you object to them, just mow more frequently during the blossoming season.
Clover is helpful with erosion and is somewhat deeper-rooted than turf (turf is actually pretty deep rooted naturally, but every time you mow, you kill the exact same amount of root that you cut off the blades above ground, so it never has a chance).
Clover is a better environmental choice, is extremely beautiful, is cheaper and easier, and is ideal for dog owners. It also serves to hide dog poop. I can’t think of one reason to use turf when clover is so much better!
There are species of clover that do very well under trees, better than turf grass does. I use a blend that was made for orchards. It might not be the right one for your yard, but you can check with the nice folks at Peaceful Valley Farms; they have been extremely helpful to me over the years.
Thought it might be of interestChrisCambridge GB
ted – posted 15 May 2005 12:16
yeah, i think i’ll try that…
2dogstoo – posted 21 June 2005 10:34
[QUOTE]Originally posted by Iastboyscout:[B]Just found this elsewhere…. “It seems obvious that urine must burn due to its acidity, and there are additives or foods that will make the urine more alkaline. The catch is that it’s not the acidity of your dog’s urine that scalds the grass, but the nitrogen content. (Dog-On-It Lawn Problems, Turfgrass Resources Center.) “
i’m on my third attempt at grass. i have 2 large females, who are trained to go in their ‘spot’, which is about 150 sq. feet. my intent this time it to seed w/fescue & perennial rye, to increase drainage, & to correct the soil. my testing verified the above comment; the pH was 6.5, but the nitrogen & the phosphorous were off the charts by a long shot, even digging about 8 inches down. the potash was very low. i have no idea how to correct the excessive nitrogen & phosphorous.
i passed on the tomato juice idea to a neighbor this morning, found this site trying to learn more about it. i’d love more information if anyone has anything definitive.
cru seeker – posted 10 June 2007 07:41
Interesting info on how dog urine affects St. Augustine. Is the same true for cat urine and feces? I have an area of St. Augustine that I cannot get to grow and it is the same area where our cat uses the bathroom. If so, any remedies? Either for making the grass grow or for making the cat go elsewhere?
[This message has been edited by cru seeker (edited 10 June 2007).]
priscilla52 – posted 08 September 2007 12:00
PLEASE DO NOT GIVE YOUR PETS TOMATOE JUICE. I have a friend who did give her golden retriever a bit of tomatoe juice every day. She said it did work to not have brown spots on her turf, but now after a few years, her dog suffers from tomatoe juice side effects – including burning esophagus from acid reflux. So, you either spend money on lawn maintenance, or spend it on the vet (while hurting your beloved animal). I’m about to put in a back yard lawn with 3 dogs. Our local nursery is recommending St. Augustine (I’m in So Cal) which I see has also been recommended by a number of folks here. Hoping that helps, along with all other suggestions. Thanks.
[This message has been edited by priscilla52 (edited 08 September 2007).]
[This message has been edited by priscilla52 (edited 08 September 2007).]
marykwiley – posted 15 May 2008 15:15
does cat urine and feces kill your grass
tuckie – posted 05 June 2008 23:57
I have a beautiful lawn and 2 1/2 beautiful goldens. Dogs vs. nice grassy lawn was a constant problem. It drove me crazy for a couple of years. My largest boy runs like a horse so if he gets going fast enough big chunks of grass go flying in all directions. I have tried putting them back and sometimes this works, but a lot of times it doesn’t. Worse then this is their addiction to eating grass,( I swear they have goat in their pedigree), which wouldn’t be so bad if they didn’t pull it out by it’s roots. This year when I reseeded in spring, I seeded very densely, which gives them more grass to deal with, so far it has not been as much of a problem as last year. I also correct them whenever I catch them, and keep a large four inch deep pot of seeded grass on the deck for them to have whenever they want grass. i just replace this as needed by growing more grass in a short pot or planter. Very easy to do. I know going potty in the grass can be a problem but I trained my dogs as pups to go potty in a specific fenced in area outside one of the back doors. This area was covered with rocks. When they were in the yard they were corrected if they went potty on the grass and taken to the potty place. So they have an area now on each side of the house they are allowed to go potty. It is called the “potty place” and they are constantly reminded that they only potty in the “potty place”. If they, or visiting dog urinate on the lawn, I try to irrigate it immediately, but of course I don’t always catch it, so do at times have areas of brown grass, which I pull up, irrigate, irrigate, fertilize, reseed and cover with a piece of wire fencing, which keeps them from using the area again. This product I ordered over the internet that is suppose to fertilize and help neutralize the urine ph, and most important gets rid of the smell which lures dogs to reuse the same area over and over. … because dog believe if you pee on it, they HAVE to pee on it, (EVEN if they have a designated “potty place”). One of the biggest problems I had was digging, mostly with the puppy which is now 3, but when one starts they all seem to join in. I tried every thing I could think of, which was mostly screaming and yelling. I would cover the areas to keep them from redigging and swear they would never go in the yard again, then I would fill it, replant it and give up on not letting them in the yard. Finally this year when I did my reseeding in the spring, not only did I seed more densely but also I kept the dogs off the yard for about 6 wks, while the ground was wet from watering daily and the grass was rooting and growing. I think this allowed the grass to get stronger and a better root system. My dogs seem to dig when there is either a muddy spot or moist bald area. They also have a sand box in the back corner where they can dig and bury balls, bones and whatever. They are not let out alone if the yard is wet . They have not dug at all this spring. Hopefully this will continue for the summer. It really helps to have those portable doggie fences that you can move around so you can restrict the dog from certain areas ( around the compost bin) when you need to. It also helps to spend as much time with the dogs outside as possible. They learn by being with you when you are working in the yard and garden and you can correct them when they do things you don’t want them to do. I learned that it is only grass and dirt, and they have so much fun out there… If it isn’t perfect it is okay.. Just enjoy it with the dogs….. and remember if you leave you dogs outside in the yard all alone all day or for really long periods without participating with them, you can’t complain about your grass or any thing else they destroyed.
SOX,PATS,CELTS – posted 15 June 2008 07:40
Hi, My dog is five years old and she has been trained to do her business on the leash, we take her accross the street by our mailbox-soil and oak leaves – no problems. Female doge urine has a much high level of nitrogen than does the male’s, which will kill the grass without a doubt! We take her directly out, walking on the driveway and to the other side of the street. It works wonderfully. She can be out in the yard and will let you know when she needs to go. Always keeping the same routine has been helpful for five years. We showed her that spot the first day we had her – 2 months old.
Ironite works to quickly geen up the spot without incresing the nitrogen level, which promotes growth in fertilizers, but again, female dog urine on grass is a killer!
[This message has been edited by SOX,PATS,CELTS (edited 15 June 2008).]
clee27 – posted 28 September 2008 08:24
I have 2 very large neutered male shepherds, and their urine burns my grass. I live in LA, or lower Alabama, and I have centipede grass. They do not tear it up playing or running, just peeing. I have a Tru Green guy who comes and sprays lawn, and in asking him he looked at me as if I am an idiot. I told him what I have been doing which is putting lime on the spots as soon as I seem the spots turning, and water it in. According to a website I went to that is supposed to “sweeten” the lawn and counteract the urine. Uhhhhhh really I do not see a difference. I have bought pee posts for them to pee on and they are not interested, and the more I try to get them interested the less they care about them. They do not potty on leash, because my husband hated when our former male shepherd, who passed away, marked anything and everything when we walked, and now they only potty in the yard off leash. A weird thing when we travel believe me! (we are military) I have also tried flushing the areas with water which seems to slightly help the area to be less damaged. Please believe me I FLUSH the area, and not just sprinkle a little water. This action has caused one of my males to think it is funny to roam as he pees and watch me follow along, and I swear he and the Tru Green guy had the same look on their face….. idiot! I do not know wether to laugh or cry, maybe I should laugh so hard I start crying. I invest time and money into my yard and my dogs I am just not sure what else to do. We live in a small town with not a lot of resources, and I have asked so many people what to do and the most common answer is that males do not burn the grass, which is not true when they are oversized and nuetered! Please can is there anyone with advice, before my neighbors, the Tru green guy, and my dog have me committed?
josedelvecchio – posted 12 December 2008 10:41
People, lawn + dog is not a good choise.
If you change the dog urine composition, the components your dog doesn’t pee keep inside it and you’ll see it effects later.
I’m not saying you must kill your dog, I like dogs too… What I’m trying to say is you have to be happy with a healthy dog and a spotted grass or you must teach your dog to pee in a particular place. Every grass species we tested here in Argentina was spotted with dog urine.
I don’t know why some guys who say they are professionals, ensure that some beautifull species can keep green even with dog urine. Trust in me, I’m agronomical engineer, it’s not true. The only species can be green with dog urine are some horrible weeds.