Red Clay problem

Rees – posted 15 September 2005 18:06

Greetings, first time writer. From Northern VA. My ten year old lawn is 75% clovers in the back. We have just dug out walkup basement steps and we have ALOT of red clay to distribute. I want to spread it out and then seed with Fescue. Questions:1)Your thoughts on spreading/mixing in manure, sand, or topsoil before seeding?2) Do I need to kill all clovers with rota-til or spray before spreading red clay?3) Could you explain the process of seeding? 2 layers, mix it in?, hay on top, etc.

Thanks for your efforts.Chris

tommy – posted 15 September 2005 22:42

You may have to settle for a grass/clover mix, because once you have had clover that many years…..there is probably a lot of clover seed in the soil. Spread the clay out evenly, roto-till it in, rake even and seed. I am not familiar with using straw as a cover, but i know its done that way in many parts of the country. I am in the west, and we just cover seed with a light,(1/4 inch) layer of peat moss,or manure, or forest mulch.

cohiba – posted 16 September 2005 09:27

If you are seeding now you can get away without the mulch, unless you are on some severe slopes. As for the clay: I would spread it out to a very rough grade bring in sand and peat moss and till the entire yard to at least a 6″ minimum depth. Do a soil test to see what nutrients or lime you may need and retill those nutrients in. Add some composted organic matter for the final till and do a final grade. Spread starter (middle number high) fertilizer and a seed of your choice. Lightly rake and maybe roll to ensure seed-to-soil contact. Now water lightly, 3-4 x per day. Turf should start up in a week or two. For the first few months pull the weeds that come up.

Clover is a weed that thrives in low fertility. Keeping your turf well fertilized and healthy will discourage clover. Try an organic fertilizer at least once or twice a year. Dare I say it but cornmeal, milorganite, sustane, or any of the organic fertilizers will work well.

You will need to treat for weeds in the Spring. The best time to treat lawns for weeds such as Dandelion and clover is in October. However I would be afraid to treat that early until you have some decent roots. Save it for spring.

Thats the way, uh huh, uh huh I like it……

Rees – posted 27 October 2005 21:03

Appreciate your time Cohiba:Unfortunately, I was not able to seed this Fall, as contractor delayed etc…can you let me know your thoughts on the same process but in the Spring…March-April. Do you recommend trying to kill all clovers before I spread the red clay???

Thanks, Rees

quote:Originally posted by cohiba:If you are seeding now you can get away without the mulch, unless you are on some severe slopes. As for the clay: I would spread it out to a very rough grade bring in sand and peat moss and till the entire yard to at least a 6″ minimum depth. Do a soil test to see what nutrients or lime you may need and retill those nutrients in. Add some composted organic matter for the final till and do a final grade. Spread starter (middle number high) fertilizer and a seed of your choice. Lightly rake and maybe roll to ensure seed-to-soil contact. Now water lightly, 3-4 x per day. Turf should start up in a week or two. For the first few months pull the weeds that come up.

Clover is a weed that thrives in low fertility. Keeping your turf well fertilized and healthy will discourage clover. Try an organic fertilizer at least once or twice a year. Dare I say it but cornmeal, milorganite, sustane, or any of the organic fertilizers will work well.

You will need to treat for weeds in the Spring. The best time to treat lawns for weeds such as Dandelion and clover is in October. However I would be afraid to treat that early until you have some decent roots. Save it for spring.

Thats the way, uh huh, uh huh I like it……

cohiba – posted 28 October 2005 11:20

I would still try to get it all done now. Spring seeding is, in most cases, a waste. The turf will come up nicely, but weeds and crabgrass will invade and the roots will be too short to take the summer heat. Try to get it done ASAP. If not get it done over the winter and mulch/straw it till spring and put a late PreM down. You can go later with Dimension. Another way to do it would be to mulch(grind up)leaves over the seed in late fall. The longer you can get the roots before the PreM the better.

Good Luck………………….