Preparing for Zoysia Turf Pics

HomeTurf – posted 30 May 2011 22:37

By Hand , rototiller, leaf rake, and pvc tube. So far the following pics.

mrmumbels – posted 31 May 2011 06:46

Looks like my crappy gray baby powder sand. Don’t forget your organic material!! You’ll regret it in the long run.

benjammin – posted 31 May 2011 11:59

Soil Test!

HomeTurf – posted 31 May 2011 14:34

Soil Ph 6.9.

Thx for the heads up. The yard is the result of 24 years of st Aug (put in when I was a young first time home builder) never bagged.All mowed mulch remains in the mix and it Tilled. The top soil is about 6 inches and is a complete blend of sandy mulch mix. Under is wet carmel sand base that is cool and moist. Hence the gray. Black dirt from Aug. sod , Carmel sand and mulch comes out to gray when dry surface dirt from no sod for 7 months drying out.. The problem is water tension (repelling) to address. The soil is not ready yet and will be getting a non bacterial detergent , molasses and milagornite blend.

[This message has been edited by HomeTurf (edited 01 June 2011).]

HomeTurf – posted 31 May 2011 15:01

Note: The detergent (non bacterial) will be extremely diluted and used as a surfactant in order for water to penetrate the 6 inch layer of mulch soil above the wet sand base just prior to sod install for the roots to move into and provide a future path when watering. I have spent the better part of a Month reading every single day for hours about different methods, commercial wetting agents and so on and can conclude for my private application this method will do just fine. You can easily see in the tube drag picture the mulch content I am referring too. I have put a LOT of time into the prep of the soil and figure the effort is 100% better than doing nothing. Also keeping in mind that doing just enough is better than messing to much. I will let the Soysia talk to me while we get to know one another. Water penetration is at the top of my list because nothing else maters if take water for granted. It would have been an easy mistake to not check the tension before putting the sod down….then think that when it gets totally soaked after 40 minutes and 1 inch of water that is is fine, but in reality it would have been starving at the roots.

The soil appears to be Hydrophobic. Three factors come into play with watering soil.” Gravity” to flow the water downward, “cohesion” of water molecules to attract to each other and “adhesion”, the attraction of water molecules to other substances.

So I am keeping it simple step by step with open ears and mind to learn how to succeed a re-sod with a great long outcome. This will allow my future attempt to plant Soysia Seed sometime later this month.

vivona – posted 31 May 2011 15:09

I would be interested in what you have found out about using a surfactant detergent. I believe some of my brown areas are caused by hydrophobic soil.

What detergent in particular are you going to use and what is the dilution rate? How do you apply it (hose end sprayer?) and at what rate per sq ft?

Would the application work on an existing lawn? Mine is 6 months old Jamur Zoysia.

HomeTurf – posted 31 May 2011 15:23

I have to go out to get a spreader (for seed/fert.) and will be back later.

In short…hose end sprayer, formula for ten gallon application at a time for 1000 square feet. I will post later the exact formula I will use from much reading. YES…this application is actually for established lawns and Greatly reduces watering while increasing a healthy sod. Some formulas also include ammonia dilution in the mix. BUT , I am not interested in that N because I am using Milagornite which is slow release.

Milagornite could be poured in a pile on your sod and not burn it. Fool proof…sod uses what it needs when it needs it. I never used any of this knowledge with my St uggly because it was a upkeep nightmare from the second years on.

HomeTurf – posted 31 May 2011 18:05

This is one of many formulas I have found , the foundation is all about the same. Google and you will find many actual user results that work. The application is open to emending what you want or do not want. The basics are proven . I have found a negative from a scholarly type that says the ingredients are short term ( he was some what a supporter of expensive products that approach this chemically. With a cost.

The “Lawn Tonic”-One full can of regular pop (any kind-no diet soda)-One full can of beer (no light beer)-1/2 Cup of Liquid dishwashing soap (do NOT use anti-bacterial dishwashing liquid)-1/2 Cup of household ammonia-1/2 Cup of mouthwash (any brand)-Pour into 10-gallon hose-end sprayer (other sizes will work too)-In high heat, apply every three weeksThe liquid soap is a wetting agent, helping the formula penetrate to the roots. The ammonia promotes growth and turns your lawn green, and the mouthwash does something you would never suspect mouthwash would do. It kills the bugs and grubs. NOTE: Do NOT use anti-bacterial dishwashing liquid in the mixture as it will kill off important microbes in the lawn and soil that help “digest” thatch.”It essentially messes-up their re-productive cycles and keeps them out of your lawn and makes it look a lot better and leaves it minty fresh,” laughs Heffron. And because it’s applied with the hose sprayer, it’s a direct shot to your sod. “When you don’t have a lot of water and we’re on watering restrictions, this is another way to get the nutrients to your lawn and keep it growing.”

HomeTurf – posted 31 May 2011 18:14

The molasses I will use later down the road, but for your infoMolasses diluted with hot water and sprayed on the lawn can help stimulate natural organisms to eat the thatch layer.

HomeTurf – posted 01 June 2011 06:05

To keep things simple and test the soap for help with reduce the repelling of water. I put 6 ounces in the 10 gallon house end sprayer. I have never used a hose end sprayer before so I should mention to those of you that have not that the container is filled with your liquid of choice to broadcast and when you press the trigger water come through the hose and vacuum sucks the contents out at a specified rate. A ten gallon broadcaster container becomes empty after 10 gallons of water have passed through the hose.

RESULTS: After putting 6 ounces of non bio green liquid dish soap in the 10 gallon broad caster (I filled the remainder of the container with water) I sprayed a 400 square foot spot on my top soil. After spraying I turned on my sprinkler system in the whole front zone for 20 minutes. The non treated zone started to show surface puddling as usual. The treated zone did not. A CLOSER LOOK:The non treated soil had a penetration of 1/8th of an inch, the treated section showed penetration of 1/2 half inch. In spots where the soap puddled (keep in mind the is NO sign of suds , this is VERY diluted) The puddled spots showed water penetration of 3-4 inches !!! Not dramatic but enough to show my reading paid off.

Let me put this into perspective. The amount I used was less than what I put in a 5 gallon bucket to wash a car, this was like a TEN gallon bucket. What I am applying is like washing my car in my yard 6 times…but I am picking the spots. THATS IT ….simple…. repelling issue solved short term for sod installation to have soil moist at depth for root growth. With EDIT I will post Pictures here later of test results for you to decide.

[This message has been edited by HomeTurf (edited 01 June 2011).]

HomeTurf – posted 01 June 2011 06:34

Palmolive Original (wallyWorld) 10 gallon hose ends sprayer6 ounces (the rest water in the container)400 sq foot

existing lawn would benefit just as much for root depth.

My wife said a very clear example when I mentioned some people would fall PC about soap on the ground. I mentioned washing a car…she trumped that and asked me how much soap do these same people pump into their yard (under the surface) dish soap and cloths washer soap every day for as long as they live there. This application is on the surface diluted.

benjammin – posted 01 June 2011 08:10

Nice research and prep. You will have a beautiful lawn! I’m 3 years into my first home and lawn. I knew having a nice lawn would be a “hobby” but sometimes it feels like a full-time job. I too have hydrophobic soils and am a true believer in dishsoap (I think I used Dawn last time) and a hose end sprayer once a month.

HomeTurf – posted 01 June 2011 08:52

Thanks Benjammin for saying the once a month. I have been reading that soap (plain soap) murphy, palmolive, dawn and so on do not last as long as commercial wetting agents. I can openly say I am not tree hugger, however respectively say I have a common sense of responsibility for soil future. I have decided to go with an organic approach to my lawn. The sound of that sentence coming from me about makes me “Gag” But from my reading I am learning that organic is better for my sod results and cheaper for my pockets and also complies with tree huggers (tongue and cheek) My goal is a sustaing lawn long term with no truck parking out front making empty promises and driving away with my money.

I want my lawn Drug Free

mrmumbels – posted 01 June 2011 12:32

quote:Originally posted by HomeTurf: I want my lawn Drug Free

HomeTurf – posted 01 June 2011 12:47

LOL I see the lawn truck as a fertilizer DRUG pusher…

“aww…come one….Ya know your lawn wants some”.

“…It’s GREAT ….EVERYBODY”S doing it “

“…Just try a little..”

“…remember there’s more where that came from…”

The above is a metaphor referring to Commercial Non organic fertilizing company’s meant to be lite humor.

HomeTurf – posted 01 June 2011 14:03

Here are the soil absorption test PICS.

Measured soil from area to be sodded

HomeTurf – posted 01 June 2011 14:15

The above was a perfect display example of what water does when not absorbed . Keep in mind the important part about this.

IMPORTANT: The above pictures show where the water is sitting in relation to the soil the NEW sod will sit on. This water will soak into your new sod and the NEW soil that comes with it…BUT underneath it will hit this barrier and fill upward giving you the visual effect of a saturated soil. But the roots will never dig far into the dry soil that has no water. The purpose for the roots to be encouraged to go deep is for it to find the deeper moisture that lays 5 inches lower in the moist sand.

benjammin – posted 01 June 2011 15:20

Oh yeah, I was amazed at how just a little water would “run” off an area with very little slope.I can’t seem to go the organic route though. I’ve been fighting a fungus and Hunting Billbugs in my Empire Z and Spittle Bugs in my Centipede, for which I’ve hired and fired 2 incompetent “pros” that didn’t like working with an educated home-owner. Finally found a friend of friend that is a certified/licensed and insured “one-man-show” that is willing to talk through options and doesn’t pressure me for fert or additional apps. I made the switch this year to Milorganite for my N and sulfate of potash magnesia for K (my soil needs no P).

mrmumbels – posted 01 June 2011 19:42

My kid uses the exact same bottles and the milk goes through him fine quote:Originally posted by HomeTurf:Here are the soil absorption test PICS.

Measured soil from area to be sodded

[This message has been edited by mrmumbels (edited 01 June 2011).]

HomeTurf – posted 09 June 2011 09:34

Getting there…

pyro – posted 09 June 2011 12:26

looks good…mine has been down for about a month and is also really coming along well.

HomeTurf – posted 11 June 2011 07:11

Some of the hardest work (who am I kidding…I feel like I am 80 right now from laying the sod) was putting top soil in EVERY single crack and hole or edge. For what ever reason , sod is cut with almost all pieces the same width. However the equipment is human driven and if it drifts 1/2 inch the pieces are narrower and can cause either gaps when laying a straight line or a curve for the next row. I could tell a curve was going to be hard to deal with considering the distances. This is my first morning with light since then to look at it. I work too many hours right now (not complaining)

mrmumbels – posted 11 June 2011 10:31

looks good!

quote:Originally posted by HomeTurf:Some of the hardest work (who am I kidding…I feel like I am 80 right now from laying the sod) was putting top soil in EVERY single crack and hole or edge. For what ever reason , sod is cut with almost all pieces the same width. However the equipment is human driven and if it drifts 1/2 inch the pieces are narrower and can cause either gaps when laying a straight line or a curve for the next row. I could tell a curve was going to be hard to deal with considering the distances. This is my first morning with light since then to look at it. I work too many hours right now (not complaining)

HomeTurf – posted 18 June 2011 16:45

One week later