fertilizing empire zoysia
aparish24 – posted 25 January 2010 06:13
I just laid down 11 pallet of empire zoysia in central florida. I have looked at over 50 websites for fertilizing regimens for empire zoysia and every one recommends different fertilizers in different amounts. Is there anyone with any input on what fertilizer to put down in what amounts and what times of year.
PS I am located in Central Florida
Thank you
turfgrass – posted 26 January 2010 20:27
because you’ve got new sod…just begin with a starter fert. whenever you warm up(march/april?), i.e. 13-25-12
don’t get bogged down in the actual numbers you see, think of them as ratios, because that’s what they are…ratios of N-P-K.
you’ll be fine applying something like a 16-4-8 “slow release” once a month for the rest of the growing season @ about 4-5 lbs./1000 sq. ft.
when sept./oct. rolls around, apply something like a 5-5-20(this is just preparing your roots for winter). really depends on your growing season though, which I’m not too familiar with.
awin4me – posted 18 May 2010 19:02
Try the University of Florida guidelines for turf. They have a schedule for Empire as for every other Florida grass. It really is the standard for fertilization and maintenance. Slow release nitrogen is key in my opinion. You have to read the fine print on the back of most fertilizers to actually see the slow release %. For example, the nitrogen in Scotts starter is 22%, but only 5% is slow release. In my opinion you are better serving the grass by buying a slow release only fertilizer, instead of shocking it with high nitrogen and then getting little benefit. If anything I feel it hurts the grass in the long run.
MrSolo – posted 09 June 2010 10:49
I used to use a lot of organics on St. Augustine and had great results. Specifically corn meal work great if I maintained the proper schedule.
Does empire react well to corn meal as a fertilizer?
Free Man – posted 12 June 2010 11:51
Whatever you get, keep two things in mind for Central Florida:
1. You don’t need ANY Phosphorus so the N-P-K ratio should look like X-0-X – 0 for no phosphorus.
2. You should try to get as much Potash as you can, and as little nitrogen as you can. So, for example, 10-0-20.
3. Whatever you get, make sure that the nitrogen portion is a true slow release. Otherwise you end up with a quick hit to your grass, which will make it green, but will also force high levels of vertical growth, which is unhealthy for your grass and will create high levels of thatch, which will in turn create an environment for fungus and bugs.
In Florida you don’t need, or want phosphorus, our soils don’t need it TYPICALLY.
You can get something from Lesco (John Deere Supply centers) that meets all of the specifications above. Lowes also has one product that has something like 27-0-10 with a slow release nitrogen component that is about $27 for a 25 lb bag and I believe does about 12,000 sq foot (roughly).
Awin4me is right on the money, University of Florida guidelines even has times and schedule for Empire right on their site. Here is the link:
http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/lh014
This is a great resource. I simply did the basic schedule for my Zoysia to start with the first year. If it appears to be lacking, I will up it to the next tier the following season.
I almost forgot Do Not over water. Floratan /Seville all strains of St. Augustine are suseptible to fungus from over…
I am from the north and it has taken me five yrs to learn and undertand seville lawns. No 1…
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