chemical aeration
chad h – posted 24 June 2005 17:39
I have seen several companies advertise chemical aerating products that supposedly loosen compacted soil better than mechanical aeration. Just wondering if anyone has had any experience with these products and if they work or not. I have very compact clay soil. thanks
ed77 – posted 24 June 2005 19:48
Compacted clays tend to be a little harder to work with than better mixed soils. All soils can be improved by stimulating the microbial population. Adequate microbial activity will improve your compaction problem and also balance many of your nutrient problems by making more of your resident nutrients bioavailable to growing plants.
Many of the more effective products use humus concentrates in their blends. ..The bulk humus products are very inexpensive, and can be purchased at a price of about $3-$4 for the average yard($5-$6 per acre), per application.
Alex_in_FL – posted 27 June 2005 19:46
Chemical aeration? Wow that is interesting. Not at all sure how that would work. Is it going to dissolve the organics to create pore space?
Earthworms would be the best aeration device (not redworms from the local bait store and not the african nigh crawlers either). But you probably can’t find enough worms.
I would go with mechanical aeration if you need it.
Alex
Ed77 – posted 29 June 2005 21:15
Yes Alex, aeration improvements are very achieveable when your microbial count increases exponentially.
chad h – posted 30 June 2005 07:21
edcan you recommend a web site to get these products? i have about 5 acres so i need a reasonable price. thanks
cohiba – posted 30 June 2005 15:01
ed,
For price comparisons, mechanical should run you anywhere from $700-1200. I pay 200 and acre to do 3 acres. The chemical aeration products, while I am sure are fantastic, may not work in your situation. Mechanical WILL work, be sure you specify that you require a minimum depth of 3″. Another good method is an Aeravator. Aerates down and side to side. Very little cleanup unlike pulling plugs.
Good Luck……………….
Ed77 – posted 30 June 2005 20:21
The price is very inexpensive and readily available. I just finished doing 5 acres about a month ago, and the difference on that five acres vs. what is left is astounding. Of course the product I used does much more to the soil complex than just aeration improvement, and any compaction problems that are corrected take time. It is basically a case of calling on the natural microbial population to respond and do the job nature has intended for them.
I used 15% humus concentrate available from Humus Products of America(1-800-228-4322 – Ask for Bob Stein!). I bought enough for ten acres(2 treatments) and the cost was $47.50 for five gallons of concentrate. The concentrate is applied by sprayer at a rate of 2 quarts per acre diluted with 10 gallons of water. I also added 2 pounds of 0-30-0 to the ten gallon mixture for stimulation. …Cost per acre was right at $5.00 per acre.
Bob also formulates a product aimed directly at turf care he calls iron sea humus. The product contains 5% iron, 5% sulfur, 5% humus, and 3 – 4% seaweed. It is used at higher rates and application costs are $10 – $12 per acre. I haven’t used it, but people I have talked to about it are pleased.
I have used humus products (15% humus, Sea Humus, and a Humus Foliar Spray) on yard turf, open pasture, fruit and nut trees, ornamentals, and vegetables. I continue to be amazed at the results that can be obtained from a dollar or two of these products!
cohiba – posted 30 June 2005 21:00
ed,
I would love to see some Penetrometer readings to see how compacted your soil was prior to the applications and where they will be in a few months.
Also, what type of equipment are you using to get such low spray rates as 10 gallons per acre?
Curious………………
Ed77 – posted 01 July 2005 14:22
First, the fertilizer stimulant in the spray mix was 30-0-0(Ammonium Nitrate), not 0-30-0.
I hand sprayed the plots with a 15 gallon sprayer(I won’t be doing that again).
– I would also be interested in the actual differences in compaction in the soil, but I don’t think it is relavent to this application. Humus products are all about reverting the soil back to the balanced state it was in before we decided chemical fertilizers produced superior benefits. Time has shown us that chemical fertilizers reduce Mother Nature’s mechanisms for plant nutrition. ..By stimulating the natural mechanisms with humates and naturally occuring hormones, soil structure improves for all plant systems. ….In this ‘renewed’ system, conventional measurements for ‘good’ or ‘bad’ aereation levels may have little relevance.
Alex_in_FL – posted 03 July 2005 21:51
H’mm. Ed, that just does not sound like chemical aeration to me. That sounds like fertilization – which is totally different from aeration.
Chad: I stand by my first post. I do not see how a chemical can aerate the ground unless it dissolves something. The only thing I know of that dissolves silica is hydrofluoric acid. I guarantee that is not something you want to use. In my humble opinion, Ed did not aerate the ground. He added nutrients. That is called fertilization (even if you do or do not use manufactured fertilizer).
So, if your yard needs aeration I agree with Cohiba and say get mechanical aeration.
Alex
Ed77 – posted 04 July 2005 12:36
I agree with you guys!
…It’s just a different approach. ..And it doesn’t fit with the accepted concept of ‘Man can do it better than Mother Nature’.
I almost forgot Do Not over water. Floratan /Seville all strains of St. Augustine are suseptible to fungus from over…
I am from the north and it has taken me five yrs to learn and undertand seville lawns. No 1…
To insert an image into a new post, either first upload it using the "+ New" button in the upper…
To insert an image < 2 MB in size in a comment, below "Leave a Reply" click BROWSE.
How do you post pictures...found link to images, but still unable to post pics.