turfgrass

starting a fescue lawn

starting a fescue lawn

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atlantajim – posted 05 May 2004 09:23

I just bought a house in the Atlanta area about a month ago. It was basically all ‘landscaped’ before, but had really become overgrown with lots of lirope, other weeds, etc. I’ve cleared it all out and rototilled. Now I’m at the point where I want to put grass down, but I wasn’t sure about sod or seed. I’ve heard to go with fescue b/c the backyard is shady (~50% of the time). Is it too late in the year to seed? The total lawn is a little under 1,000 sq. ft., so I don’t think sodding would be too expensive, right? Is it better to have a professional handle the sodding or buy it and try to do it myself???Thanks…

ted – posted 05 May 2004 13:18

sod it. 1000 sq. ft. isn’t much- just do it yourself- faster cheaper better- most sod installers aren’t worth much in my opinion. you’re fine on the temps this time of year.

josepht – posted 09 May 2004 22:10

Your in Atlanta which is close to me

It is too warm already to seed this yard with a fescue. If I was you I would have a soil sample taken and start preparing your soil for a good fall seeding I know from experience that you most likey have a red clay soil which fescue will thrive in. So have your ph balance checked out and and lime accordinaly about the first of august then seed with a good fescue about the second to third week of September and Fertilize accordinaly probally a 16-8-8 will work. In the mean time seed your yard with an annual summer rye grass to get a lawn this summer you seed today and you WILL have grass in about 10 days

cohiba – posted 10 May 2004 14:16

atlantajim,

I’m with ted on this one. Sod it and keep it moist not soaked. Sod it yourself after checking the pH and adding whatever is lacking. If you need help with a soil report I will be glad to help you with anaylsis. Liming is important but picking the correct lime could be critical.

Good reason for sodding: Less weed invasion than from a quick overseed. Also, correct me if I’m wrong but isn’t Ryegrass hard to keep in the south in the summer?

Just my two cents…….Good Luck…..

ted – posted 10 May 2004 19:18

ryegrass would be disastrous in the south- it would germinate quickly, then undergo heat stress and die. sod gives you an extra advantage since it’s more mature when planted. also, given the shady nature of your backyard you will have less heat stress on the sod. ordinarily, i would agree to sod/seed in the fall, but since it’s only 1000 sq.ft….–also, lots of tall fescue lawns in atlanta.

josepht – posted 11 May 2004 15:38

Cohiba

I am in NC and we have about the same weather patterns as Atlanta and we have no trouble with Rye grass growing I was just giving him another option other than sod due to our red clay soil if you dont know what your doing you will be wasting your money, laying the sod is the easiest part the prep work here is what will get you.

you wont see me answer for any one in an area that I dont know about. I have no problem with sod but you can also have a weed free lawn with tall fescue I do and I have planted and maintained plenty that do also.

alan – posted 16 May 2004 08:42

I just had 18 pallets of fescue installed. The company that did the install was evergreen landscape from Suwannee. They arrived a week ago thursday at 5am and was finished around 3. i am told that fescue sod is nearing the end of the season so i would hurry. i think evergreen sells and installs or just sells sod. the sod came from gulfshores Al. and was beautiful. it is now starting to take root. i was told to water heavy for the first day. then keep it moist but not soaked. i agree with the other comments on rye. i plant rye in my pasture in the fall along with fescue for my horses. it drys up in the heat. i’ve planted fescue in the spring but early spring. fescue grows best between 50 and 80 something degrees. i would sod very soon and properly water. and a pallet of sod should cover 500 sq ft. at a cost of 130.00 per pallet.

ted – posted 16 May 2004 17:05

be careful about your watering- brown patch fungus season is upon us. water in the early morning only in the absence of rainfall. you need to soil test to determine any nutrient problems. lay off the nitrogen for sure. use fungicides like prostar as a preventative. don’t be suprised if the sod goes downhill quickly, with summer heat and disease stress, it’s a natural process. follow normal maintenance procedures nad you should have a nice lawn. it is a little late for sodding so take extra precautions.

atlantajim – posted 18 May 2004 10:09

Thanks to all for your help. I sodded with fescue this past weekend.

Now my next question is the amount to water. I’ve been trying to water in the morning, and, using a cup to measure the water depth, been putting about an inch of water down. We haven’t gotten any rain here, although it’s looking likely today, so is this a correct amount?

Also, the backyard, which is much more shady than the front, looks fine. Some of the pieces of sod in the front are starting to look a little yellow around the edges. Is this normal? Are they too dry? Other problems? Thanks again.

ted – posted 18 May 2004 20:51

i’m starting to become concerned about the quality of your sod installation. did they touch the edges together? was the soil smoothed perfectly before the sod was installed? did they use a roller after they finsihed- you’ve been in a dry spell, for sure, keep watering- might back off the back yard a tad- brown patch fungus starts when the night temps run 70 or higher 3 nights in a row- don’t keep it wet at night.

atlantajim – posted 19 May 2004 14:18

The yard was raked several times in the week prior to the sod being laid, so it should have been smooth, but it was not rolled afterwards. The area in the front yard that I mentioned before (with the yellowing edges on some of the sod) is on a slope, so I think a few pieces of sod may have slid a little, so there is some separation between some sections. The rest of the yard seems to be ok. Are the gaps a problem?

The sod also has a trampled down look to it, presumably from being stacked on the pallets. Because of this, I think that the bottom part of the sod is staying pretty wet all day/night. Should I fluff up the grass to let it air out (I haven’t wanted to mess with it too much while the roots are setting)? Not water until it dries more?

Thanks.

ted – posted 19 May 2004 17:06

if there are gaps, you’ve got a sod installation problem. if the soil is moist underneath the sod, then you’re probably ok, don’t do anything to “fluff” it up- i’m assuming that would mean removing the sod, and you don’t want to disturb the rooting process. sounds like you’re watering enough. more watering won’t make up for the gaps in the sod, fescue doesn’t “spread” like bermuda. sounds like there was some genuine prep work on your part, but i really recommend the rolling.

atlantajim – posted 20 May 2004 08:15

Well by ‘fluffing up’, I meant just trying to get the grass to stand more upright, so the bottom inch or two of the grass blades gets some air and doesn’t stay so damp all the time (it’s starting to look a little yellowish from being wet all the time)-not actually pulling up the sod. I guess the sod wasn’t cut prior to being delivered (the grass is already probably 4″-6″ long), which is the cause of the issue.

ted – posted 20 May 2004 14:26

yeah, you’re way overwatered.

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