jimtnc2002 – posted 26 April 2005 04:41
I posted another thread below for Cohiba because he posted about this subject, but he may not be available so can anyone else offer their knowledge to help?
I’m being overrun by Poa Annua, and I heard something about “wetting agents” that can burn off the seedheads on Poa. There’s three different kinds of agents (which I know not much about), so what agent would they be using to achieve this before the seeds drop off?
You don’t suppose a high-tech soap (synthetic surfactants) or Ivory liquid soap would do the job if sprayed directly on the grass seed?
Thanks, Jim.
ted – posted 26 April 2005 13:03
i think velocity is your answer or rubigan, a fungicide
jimtnc2002 – posted 27 April 2005 04:19
thanks ted
cohiba – posted 29 April 2005 13:10
Hey, Sorry, I have been busy.
We have utilized a few different strategies to combat Poa. Only one has been 100% effect. Velocity.For seed head reduction you can use any liquid wetting agent The key is to apply in the AM and let the sun burn the seed head that is treated with the wetting agent. Another good strategy is to apply preM in the early fall. Poa is a winter annual. If anyone has better ideas, let me know.
Good Luck………………………
Turf Toes – posted 02 May 2005 11:42
Thanks for the tip. I’m seeing this stuff in part of my lawn too. I’ll give it a try!
quote:Originally posted by cohiba:Hey, Sorry, I have been busy.
We have utilized a few different strategies to combat Poa. Only one has been 100% effect. Velocity.For seed head reduction you can use any liquid wetting agent The key is to apply in the AM and let the sun burn the seed head that is treated with the wetting agent. Another good strategy is to apply preM in the early fall. Poa is a winter annual. If anyone has better ideas, let me know.
Good Luck………………………
jimtnc2002 – posted 03 May 2005 04:46
cohiba thanks, and would you call Nitron A-35 a wetting agent? Are surfactants wetting agents? Do you have any that are your favorites and reasonable to buy or make?
Everyone is telling to forget about the poa until fall then apply a preemergent like Surflan, which I’m inclined to believe (velocity is pretty expensive, right?). But, I hate to see all these seedheads getting ground into the soil. I would like to stop the infestation where it’s at right now.
Cohiba, would it be possible to overseed fescue in the fall and still be able to apply velocity or surflan in the fall…say overseed mid to late August and apply the preemergent in early Sept?
Thanks, Jim
[This message has been edited by jimtnc2002 (edited 03 May 2005).]
[This message has been edited by jimtnc2002 (edited 03 May 2005).]
ted – posted 03 May 2005 08:45
a “sticker” (surfactant) is not a wetting agent. where are you located?- i thinking we’re dealing with different grass types here…- you would not be able to seed fescue then immediately use a pre-em afterwards- but again where are you seeding fescue where you would be putting pre-em down in the fall?????
jimtnc2002 – posted 03 May 2005 09:14
I’m in NC. It gets pretty hot here around that time. I may have the wrong idea of what wetting agents are and how to apply them. I did want to get something down now to slow the spread of these seedheads.
Thanks.
ted – posted 03 May 2005 12:53
i wouldn’t use pre-em in your market in the fall for fescue. you should be able to control this weed by having a full thick lawn. it’ll burn off in the last spring. velocity for prograss or rubigan ( a fungicide) will control it.
ted – posted 03 May 2005 12:55
yeah, cohiba’s in the golf business in a whole different region. his methods, although very correct, may not be applicable in home lawn.
placergold – posted 03 May 2005 13:31
Persistant seed head problems with poa can be controlled with a proxy/primo application about a month prior to seedhead formation. Great results on golf course greens, however, there is no curative removal as far as I know.
jimtnc2002 – posted 04 May 2005 06:36
Is proxy/primo affordable to the homeowner and also available? Where?
Ted – Thanks for the info. I wish I had your optimism regarding the spreading and controling of this annual bluegrass. It’s pretty pesky right now (I know it will die out in summer), but those seedheads will be germinating that are already in the soil and another vicious cycle, unless I can kill/neutralize the seeds in the fall. Obviously I had germination this past fall and either didn’t know it or didn’t recognize it.
cohiba – posted 04 May 2005 14:08
I would not apply any PreM if I were overseeding anything in the fall. The PreM could be used if the lawn was good enough to not need overseeding. I agree that in the south/hotter climates the Poa will die itself. But the annual nature of the poa is to put seed out in spring with the expentancy of the poa dying. The seeds will “over summer” in the soil and emerge in the fall. Remember: Poa is a winter annual. Just like dandelion. The best time to treat dandelions is in October (in transition zone). The final step in a plants life cycle is to ensure there are more plants in the future so seeds are produced. Velocity is not labeled for homeowner use. Cost is $100.00/ ounce rate is 1 ounce/acre. As far as wetting agents are concerned Primer or Aquatrol will work well. I have also used a product from Helena (cannot remember name). Prograss has mixed reviews from the pros. Bermuda and Zoysia owners have it great as Roundup will work well. But only when the turf is dormant.
My two cents……………………….
jimtnc2002 – posted 05 May 2005 04:49
thanks cohiba. That really puts me in a bind, because I really need to seed this fall and should treat for poa after that also, but I think you’re indicating that doing both might be a mistake, and I’m not challenging your expertise.
If I overseeded in mid-August and sprayed with something, certainly not velocity, Surflan maybe (some say Dimension would work)in mid-October, would that not give the new seedlings time to mature enough to not be affected by any poa treatment? Maybe not, but I would have thought 2 months would be a good start.
Jim
[This message has been edited by jimtnc2002 (edited 05 May 2005).]
cohiba – posted 05 May 2005 12:40
Two months would be a good start. But timing for poa control might be earlier, say mid September. I would seed this fall and start the poa PreM next fall. The turf needs all it can get to get through the winter. PreM may be too hard for it right off the starting block. The root pruning preM (ronstar or barricade) may be too toxic and injurious to the new plants.
Better Safe Than Sorry……………….
jimtnc2002 – posted 06 May 2005 04:57
Gotcha cohiba. Thanks for the input, and dit makes good sense. I think I will seed this fall and wait.
Jim
PoaBothell – posted 02 June 2005 20:09
Cohiba: I have Poa here in Seattle and read your advise with great interest. Our lawns here stay green year around needing mowing once per month in the winter. Any different advice since the grass does not go dormant like most of the rest of the country?
quote:Originally posted by cohiba:I would not apply any PreM if I were overseeding anything in the fall. The PreM could be used if the lawn was good enough to not need overseeding. I agree that in the south/hotter climates the Poa will die itself. But the annual nature of the poa is to put seed out in spring with the expentancy of the poa dying. The seeds will “over summer” in the soil and emerge in the fall. Remember: Poa is a winter annual. Just like dandelion. The best time to treat dandelions is in October (in transition zone). The final step in a plants life cycle is to ensure there are more plants in the future so seeds are produced. Velocity is not labeled for homeowner use. Cost is $100.00/ ounce rate is 1 ounce/acre. As far as wetting agents are concerned Primer or Aquatrol will work well. I have also used a product from Helena (cannot remember name). Prograss has mixed reviews from the pros. Bermuda and Zoysia owners have it great as Roundup will work well. But only when the turf is dormant.
My two cents……………………….
cohiba – posted 03 June 2005 06:06
Poabothell,
I guess heat doesn’t take it out as well! You live in the best part of the country for growing turf, lucky you. As for the poa, I would try the preM in fall. As long as you weren’t planning on overseeding. I would also try the post control of Prograss in spring. Some people swear by it, others say thier poa laughs at it. What turf are you growing now? If your lawn is predominately poa, a renovation might be in order. Then you could Roundup and reseed with improved varieties.
Hope that helps………….
khall1015 – posted 12 April 2010 19:37
I live in Central Arkansas. My yard is bermuda, but is being overrun by poa anna. Is there anything I can put down now to kill the poa anna, and still allow the bermuda to grow this summer? If not what do I need to do once the summer is over? We are just now beginning to experience temperatures on sunny days over 80 degrees.