jimtnc2002 – posted 20 October 2004 06:19
On several other forums it is said that the last fall fertilizing for cool-season grass(around mid Nov)should be high in (N) nitrogen content for the grass to store carbohydrates for the long winter period.
A contrary opinion was posted on another forum that a leading seed supplier said “N produces soft, succulent tissue and predisposes turf to unneccessary disease pressure and potential cold weather damage. This would be very true for the fine fescues which are traditionally turf species with low N requirements.”
I’m not trying to open a can of worms, but it is a little confusing to those of us that are trying to learn the proper ways of lawn management. Just trying to get a broader base of estalished opinions.
Anyone care to chime in on this?
[This message has been edited by jimtnc2002 (edited 20 October 2004).]
cohiba – posted 20 October 2004 16:42
jimtnc2002,
I have been doing my fall fertilization in November for the last 8 years. On cool season grasses, I use 22-0-22, straight Urea(No sulphur coated, or slow release). This is done before the turf stops growing and while the turf is hardening off. The turf should be hardening off, or slowing down growth, prior to fertilization. Frost is the main reason turf hardens off. Another neat thing I like to do is leaves. We mulch our leaves into the turf with our rotary mowers. This provides organic matter and will provide Nitrogen in the summer of the following year. In all, I provide my bluegrass/fescue/ryegrass turf with 1# of N and let mother nature do the rest. I only fertilize these areas in the fall, which is the most important fert. of the season.
I have never had problems with winter kill on these areas.
Good Luck and Take Care………….
jimtnc2002 – posted 21 October 2004 10:12
thanks cohiba. Most folks have talked about this ad nauseum for a few months now, so it’s getting harder to get anyone to comment. Guess I’ll just apply another round of Lesco’s 24-3-18. or whatever it is.
[This message has been edited by jimtnc2002 (edited 21 October 2004).]
cohiba – posted 21 October 2004 16:03
Another thing I like to do is apply 1#(material) per 1000sq.ft of 0-0-50 (Potash) in early to mid December. This material will help the turf handle the winter stresses. Sometimes turf will turn purple in late fall. This is a physiological sign that the turf lacks potash in the cell wall. Potash makes the cell wall more rigid and able to standup to freezing and thawing better.
Another great time to use it is in June. Potash helps the turf manage temperature stress and eases water management.
Use Muriate of Potash not the sulphate. Fertilizer has enough sulphur in it, you don’t need to add more.
Just my two cents…………..
jimtnc2002 – posted 22 October 2004 07:56
Just for clarity, I fertilized with Lesco’s 24-3-14 in Sept and Oct, and I am about to do it again in Nov. I’m a little confused about the potash application, though.
Wouldn’t the three fall applications put enough potash in the soil without an additional Dec application, or am I not calculating correctly?
Jim.
[This message has been edited by jimtnc2002 (edited 22 October 2004).]
cohiba – posted 24 October 2004 10:07
Potash in the soil is not always available to the plant. I put the potash down by itself to ensure that enough is there for the plants uptake prior to the really cold temperatures.
You do not have to do it though, it is just an extra thing I like to do. However, I would make my last Fall fertilizing in November. And make sure it is Urea, all fast release fert. No slow release.
The best thing to do, above and beyond fertilizing with whatever is on sale, is to have a soil test completed on your lawn to see where you are lacking nutrients. Then you can tailor your fertilizer program to add what is needed withouit spending money on unessasary nutrients.
Good Luck…………..
jimtnc2002 – posted 25 October 2004 05:38
Sounds like good advice to me. I had my soil tested by the county extension a couple of years ago, but I found the results very hard to intepret without an Agronomy degree. They showed the soil analysis and recommended I keep the soil at a certain ph, but I got lost with the rest of it. Maybe I’ll go back and reread it…maybe it’ll make more sense now.
cohiba – posted 25 October 2004 13:53
Jim, If you still have the results, I would be glad to look them over and give some pointers/thoughts on what you have. I do have a degree. If you want me to check them out you can fax them to me at 856-589-7518. I can make notes and fax it back or tell you what I think over the forum. I love this stuff. I do over 45 tests a year on various places around work. Even the simpliest tests can show you alot about what is going on in your soil. And remember: It all starts with the soil.
Just the fax………Take Care.
volabroad1 – posted 25 October 2004 14:29
Isn’t fertilizing in Sep, Oct AND Nov a little much? I thought fertilization was done 3 – 4 times at most. . .
cohiba – posted 25 October 2004 17:37
It really depends upon how much you are putting down at each application. 1/2# vs.1# Nitrogen. If you are going for 3-4 pounds per year than most of your fertilizer should be done in the Fall. If you are applying 1/2# Nitrogen then monthly is a good plan to put down 1 1/2# nitrogen in the fall. I prefer to put down 1# in Sept, 1/2# in October and 1# in November. I put down 4 pounds per season total. Not including organic fertilizer which only releases in the summer. Note to all: I am talking cool season grasses.
For what its worth………..
jimtnc2002 – posted 26 October 2004 12:40
Ok, let me try to find it and dig it out. I haven’t looked at it in several months, but I should be able to put my hands on it…and thanks.
jimtnc2002 – posted 03 November 2004 04:53
Hey cohiba, do you have an email that I can send this soil test attachment to you? I finally found it, and I don’t have access to a fax at the moment.
BTW, this copy may look a little smudged, but if you print it out it reads better. But remember, this test was done 04/2003. Since then I’ve added compost, several fertilizings from last fall until now (mostly in the fall), but no pelletized lime at all.
Thanks, Jim.
[This message has been edited by jimtnc2002 (edited 03 November 2004).]
cohiba – posted 03 November 2004 13:21
Jim,
You can email the results to: shellerman@comcast.net
I’ll be glad to look it over and send you some feedback.
Talk to you soon…………
jimtnc2002 – posted 04 November 2004 05:14
email comin’ atcha.
cohiba – posted 04 November 2004 13:55
Jim,
Got it fine. Will check it out and give you the skinny. Is that pH 5 or 6?
I’ll be back………………
jimtnc2002 – posted 05 November 2004 04:58
It looks to me like ph5.1, which is probably a little too acidic. It was right on the paper crease.
Thanks again cohiba.